Lower the back of your bug

[ThrasherBill]

Here's an article on raising the back of a bug but the steps are pretty much the same for lowering.

http://www.vw-resource.com/rearaxle.html

And some helpful pictures.

http://www.vwtrendsweb.com/tech/0312vwt_1971_beetle_super_project_part_6/

[VWxyz67]

can you lower the back without the top of the wheels turning out?

[jsmith]

:stoned:Don't you mean leaning inward ? Yes you can, By moving the rear suspension up or Channeling the body down. :sawzall:

[porterville]

not correct, i have seen this plate that goes on the end of your torsion bars that are V shaped and they correct the camber when you lower the back. i am looking for these plates so i can lower the back of my 71 super withouth going through tires like crazy. when i find them i will post a link.

[vintage-raze]

never heard of plates at the end of torsion bars.... that doesn't even make sense.

just flip your trailing arms on the '71, thats free and solves your problem

And get an intro up.... lets see that project

[porterville]

i just didnt explain myself correctly, the plate that im talking about bolts on the end of the torsion bar, it is about 5 inches wide and its in the shape of a V, where the tow parts of the plate come together is at the bottom, this will make the top further out than the bottom, pushing the top of the wheel out. its hard to explain ill just have to find the product and post a pic/link.

[vintage-raze]

I'd like to see those pics:hmm:.... putting any type of "V" at the end of a torsion bar would have zero effect on the position of the wheel..... all it would do is twist the shit out of your spring plate. And 5"'s wide?!?!:blink:

Also, what you are looking to fix when lowering is Camber not Toe (I'm assuming thats what you were referring to here:)

about 5 inches wide and its in the shape of a V, where the tow parts of the plate come together

And the above makes no sense anyway..... There is nothing at the end of your torsion bar designed for towing... If you meant Toe, Theres nothing at the end of your torsion bar for that either:Idunno:

Pics Please! Your explaination has me going :panic:

Just flip your god damn trailing arms:funny:

[VWFREAK]

What sick puppy whats to raise there car ?????????????

Sparks are my friend and speed humps my enemy.

[purplepeopleeater]

Im sick I guess, I like the neg chamber look on my squareback....Though my wheel bearing on the drivers side is not, I think my tires hate it too.


SCREW THEM I DONT NEED THEM :yelling:



:funny:

[jsmith]

When I wrote to raise the rear suspension, I mean raise up the rear transaxle & engine or channeling the body to lower the car. I plan on flipping the trailing arms on mine. But if I was building from scratch, that's what I'd do.
I've seen the plates that guy was talking about, on the Samba. I wrote them, they only make them for Swing Axle models. Unless someone else makes them for IRS ?

[Timbo]

I think what he is talking about is the extensions you bolt on the end of the springplate to correct the toe in. When a swing axle is lowerd a lot(like hoodride) because you cant move the axle back far enough to set the toe in. There is not a bolt on peice to fix the camber on a swingaxle. The only fix is to raise the trans or raise the rear back to stock.
Tim

[jsmith]

:rollingeyes:Samba Ad. # 347713, Spring Plate Extensions for lowered Bugs 1958 to 1967, $ 65.00:stoned:

[vintage-raze]

Those do nothing for correcting camber, Which is what porterville was claiming, which is also why I was confused... Not only that, he has an IRS:Idunno:

not correct, i have seen this plate that goes on the end of your torsion bars that are V shaped and they correct the camber when you lower the back. i am looking for these plates so i can lower the back of my 71 super withouth going through tires like crazy. when i find them i will post a link.

i just didnt explain myself correctly, the plate that im talking about bolts on the end of the torsion bar, it is about 5 inches wide and its in the shape of a V, where the tow parts of the plate come together is at the bottom, this will make the top further out than the bottom, pushing the top of the wheel out. its hard to explain ill just have to find the product and post a pic/link.


Also they bolt to the axle tubes not torsion bars.... The guys first 2 posts and they are both non-sense. porterville, Please know what your talking about before you post:rollingeyes:


Thanks jsmith for sheding some light on the situation

[jsmith]

I was gonna ad to Fonzie's Thread on flippin T-arms, But it's closed. So I'm adding it here. On Fonzie's swapping spring plates & T-arms didn't work out as easily, because it moved the forward bolt to the top & in the way. But Mine is a 69, So not only is the bolt on top to start with, it's threaded. :dancing:Flipping will put it to the bottom, making it easier to notch & adjust. The double plates are a pain in the ass tho.

[metalmaster1766]

The double plates are a pain in the ass tho.

if you care to get rid of the double spring plates, i'd gladly trade you a set of single spring plates for them, i have a few sets laying around

i would like to have a set of the double spring plates for my rail buggy, i looked for years and nobody around here wanted to part with them, they all use them on their off road buggys

if and when i get around to my rail, if i havent found a pair, ill just weld another plate to the original, no big deal,

[66 Shorty]

How low can you go with the T-arms on the correct sides before you comprimise your suspension parts? Is it really beneficial to swap them from side to side? How much lower & what ill affects does it have on your suspension by swapping them? I have a Ghia that I might be using the whole T-housing & arms from to lower a (shortened) Bus & wanted to know if I would have to flip the T-Arms as well, Or should I have it welded in where I want it & call it a day? Then I could lower it from there if I want it lower.

Is any of this making sence?:Idunno:

Any help/info would be appreciated!

[jsmith]

Weld it in were you want. If you mean to raise the rear suspension on the frame (to lower the body) If not channel the body over the frame. That would probably be the best thing to do.
Mine is on the pan. I'm just getting rid of the negative camber caused when lowering a VW by adjusting the torsion plates.
On a VW lowered with the torsion adjustment, you can also get rid of negative camber by raising the trailing arm front mounts, higher on the torsion tube.
The advantage of channeling or raising the whole rear suspension on the frame ( to lower the car), is that you retail original geometry & travel.
The disadvantages include more body Mods needed to clear the lowered suspension.
If I was building from scratch, I would channel the body..

[jsmith]

Here is the rear trailing arms flipped & lowered (Ala Fonzie !). They still need to settle, but you can see how straight they look compared to it's Camber before.

[lonebugger]

how low will you get with flipping the trailing arms, im slow so this is meaning swapping from one side to the other?? if soo coooooool. thanks ahead of time for the duhhhh question.

matt

[jsmith]

Look under the Tech bin (Your in it) under FONZY's "Learn how to flip IRS trailing arms, for that extra low stance".
It explains it all pretty well.

This is used in conjunction with readjusting your torsion tube several teeth.

Basically on a 69 & newer Bug you remove both trailing arms, Cut off the Shock mounts & Bump stops. Weld the opposite Shock & bumpstop mounts on what was the top side of the trailing ams. Remount them (now on opposite sides) and you'll regain camber.

Good Artical, Good photos, Good luck, Jimbo

[67ratter]

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f264/vegasdawg65/Springplatedrop275inches.jpg

This is what the guy was talking about!!!

[jsmith]

Yeah, For 68 and Older, Not IRS

[vwfanatic]

plates also available for irs....i have a set

[Choppercabra]

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f264/vegasdawg65/Springplatedrop275inches.jpg

This is what the guy was talking about!!!


That still doesnt fix camber.