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rottenpop July 3rd, 2005 02:58 PM

Sorry if this has been covered before but I cant find anything on what I,m trying to do.

I want to build a fenderless roadster pickup and rather than use a frame extender to move the front wheels, I want to shorten whats left of the body and move it back on the pan as well as chanelling it by about 5" or so. I,ve removed the heater channels and will be mounting the body to the pan with some 90 degree angle section welded to the body sections and reusing the original bolt holes. All pretty straight forward so far.......

The problem I,m faced with is where to shorten the pan? I was originally thinking of taking 10" out of the front floor and moving the pedals,shifter,parking brake, back on the tunnel. Leave the framehead alone complete with brake m/cyl and just extend the linkage to to the brake pedal. Hmmmmm.

The other way is to take 10" out from behind the front seats and move the whole pan back (lots more welding)

So, if you,ve any experience in this sort of mod, help me out here before I turn a good floorpan into a pile of scrap! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/Sawzallsmiley.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/FreakinSmiley.gif[/img]

lunatic_magnet July 3rd, 2005 05:47 PM

that sounds like dan's (vwfanatic) project except he is using a externder on top of that. have you checked in to see what he's done to his frame?

i'd go with a sandrail master cylinder setup before i used a 10" long pushrod on a stock setup. what would your front firewall sit on of the hump of the pan is 10" in front of it?

Unkl Ian July 3rd, 2005 05:58 PM

If you slide the body back,you move the front wheels closer to the front,
same as using an extender.You'd have to move the shifter,etc,back as well,
and trim the pan where it sticks out on the front.

If you cut behind the seats,the wheelbase gets shorter,
but you don't move the front wheels relative to the body,
and you have less stuff to move.

The more I think about it,(depending on the body style)I'm inclined to
take some out behind the seats,
AND move the front wheels forward,by bolting on an extender,stretching
the frame head,or flipping the beam.

Many VW roadster pickups look too long,to me,between the back of the door
and the rear wheel.So taking several inches out of there would be good.

Nick July 3rd, 2005 06:03 PM

check my site: under the chassis section

what I did pretty much was cut the front part of the chassis in front of the pedal area, cut out about 10" of the rear part of the chassis behind the seats, then move the middle part back. Then added pans in between the firewall area of teh chassis and the old firewall section of the pans. Maybe this pict below will help. THe bottom pict, the section in between the lines is the added chassis from a donor chassis.

Pict of my chassis, the passenger section relocated (mockup) and driver side stock:

And the added pans at front, keep in mind my pans has been dropped/channelled as well.

Also please note this isn't an easy modification. You will have to modify the pedals and shifter as well, lots of different ways to do that, info on how I did on my site as well (cut and relocate the chassis tunnel back 10"). The easy route is probably just extend the shifter on and angle going back, like a zig-zag/"s" shaped rod?

I only know of 4 VWs total that has done this, mine, Rob's/Will's volkstruck, and both of Tobias bugs. But it's well worth the effort [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumbsup.gif[/img] It will definitely be easier on a pickup conversion, but also keep in mind the rear wheels will be closer to the drive now. You can fix this by stretching the chassis in the middle. But I think(?) the other two builders (ButcherWill and Tobias) didn't relocate the chassis like mine, just remounted the body in a new location. This will make the driver sit alot closer to the dash, unless you relocate the seat back, etc. With my method (the harder way) the body basically still unbolts like stock adn the body lines will still match the chassis lines and everything bolt up exactly the same as stock. Also keep in mine if you do my method, you'll need to widen teh rear seat area a few inches to match the width of the stock body location at that area (just an FYI). THat's no big deal if you can do everything else anyways.

bugdust July 3rd, 2005 06:06 PM

On a similar note, does anyone have a link to how to shorten a pan for a dune-buggy? The link on is dead. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/dry.gif[/img]

slodown July 3rd, 2005 06:10 PM

should be one at the manx site

Found it.

Turd Ferguson July 3rd, 2005 06:10 PM

SloDown...good reaction time, I lose 3 forum points.

slodown July 3rd, 2005 07:59 PM

from 6:10 to 6:11, I guess that makes me a minuteman [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img]

PAPA_SMURF July 3rd, 2005 08:50 PM

on mine,

I slid the body back 14" and just used through bolts to hold the body down. It wil all be under carpet anyways and the high grade bolts are stronger than the 40 year old rusty ones. I am using a shifter box welded above the tunnel and having an exposed rod (didn't sound right :o ), since I have to raise the tranny 6" to keep my wheels strait. I am using a sandrail pedal for simplicity, and it is sectioned a total of 7" . 5" cut of the center and 2" off the top. It looks nothing like a vw now. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

RyanB July 3rd, 2005 09:41 PM

Bugdust, I also used the manx site when I shortned my pan. Worked out very well. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumbsup.gif[/img]

rottenpop July 3rd, 2005 10:31 PM

Cool tips, I thank ya all. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumbsup.gif[/img]

I do realize this aint gonna be a 5 day project but if it was easy, everyone would be doing it........

I,m going to have another measure up session later on today and maybe even do some diagrams to see how it works on paper. Gotta agree on the 10" brake pushrod, it doesnt even sound good. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/FreakinSmiley.gif[/img]

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