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Old June 16th, 2012, 04:32 AM   #101
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Default Re: Three ring Binder

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Originally Posted by fishguts
My attraction to volksrods is that these are bottom-feeders where things are still real ... people scraping together parts, doing their own work and often on a tight budget. Real hot rodding is still alive here.
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Old June 16th, 2012, 09:22 PM   #102
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Default Re: Three ring Binder

She looks beaucoupe better topless. Looks like you've got an excellent work crew.
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Old June 17th, 2012, 06:14 AM   #103
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Default Re: Three ring Binder

I agree. They look a lot better without the top and even better with the doors off and the windshield down...
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Old June 19th, 2012, 02:50 PM   #104
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Default Re: Three ring Binder

Hey Ray!

Softball season is over, so I am back on here too. How was baseball for the boys? Looks like you have some good helpers for this project. We have alot of those "guests" out here in the desert as well......always good for a "holy crap, what was that" moment when reaching in some place.
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Old June 20th, 2012, 11:50 AM   #105
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Default Re: Three ring Binder

We have two more tournaments, and football signups are tomorrow...
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Old June 21st, 2012, 03:00 PM   #106
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Default Re: Three ring Binder

No work tonight as we have football signups and baseball practice right after. But tomorrow... Tomorrow will be the first real day of work on the Banshee. And yes there will be pics and a Wright up, but you may have to wait for a while. It will cover something VERY essential to EVERY VEHICLE on the road. So stay tuned....
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Old June 21st, 2012, 08:09 PM   #107
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Oooh, a lecture on the proper set up of the vehicle's guidance mechanism?
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Old June 21st, 2012, 09:01 PM   #108
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Nope. Silence...
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Old June 21st, 2012, 09:05 PM   #109
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Default Re: Three ring Binder

Tagged and bagged for the later awesomeness that will be this thread. I see a lot of questions being answered in this thread, Plus I have a weird spot in my heart for IH's
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I found it in a shop in Raton New Mexico. I bought it for a quarter. Cracked me up it was called a Gay Camper. It must be old as hell. They would pull that shit off the shelf now days. Because some Homo would get offended.
If you don't chew big red then FUCK YOU
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Old June 21st, 2012, 09:42 PM   #110
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Default Re: Three ring Binder

I'm guessing rust prevention.
Either that or the proper mechanics of jumping a vehicle and having it land safely....
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Old June 21st, 2012, 10:30 PM   #111
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Nah, I'm thinking getting off the glowing box and actually working on something; Finishing what you start, or "USE THE SEARCH FUNCTION" and "OPEN A PHOTOBUCKET ACCOUNT"
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I found it in a shop in Raton New Mexico. I bought it for a quarter. Cracked me up it was called a Gay Camper. It must be old as hell. They would pull that shit off the shelf now days. Because some Homo would get offended.
If you don't chew big red then FUCK YOU
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Old June 27th, 2012, 08:12 AM   #112
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Default Re: Three ring Binder

Side note: that tire Guss repaired is holding 35psi, while the one I did has gone flat again. It is more than likely due to the huge dry rot cracks in the sidewalls of these 30 year old tires, but that doesn't stop the little pecker head from rubbing it in... Gotta love him.
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Old June 27th, 2012, 01:31 PM   #113
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Default Re: Three ring Binder

.....slime.....

at least while you are moving it around and working on it.
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Originally Posted by Unkl Ian View Post
Don't be Fucking stupid.

The bolt is Fucked, it won't fix it's self,
the Bolt Fairy won't fix it, and you can't fix it.


I know there is a Full Moon, but quit Fucking around.
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Old June 27th, 2012, 04:08 PM   #114
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Default Re: Three ring Binder

Pull it off and dunk it. With the hillbilly ingenuity, and connections you have it should be easy to find the leak. I fought a leak like that for a year because I thought it was a combination of weather checked tires and a bad rim... It was the valve stem
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Originally Posted by Mikelrome View Post
I found it in a shop in Raton New Mexico. I bought it for a quarter. Cracked me up it was called a Gay Camper. It must be old as hell. They would pull that shit off the shelf now days. Because some Homo would get offended.
If you don't chew big red then FUCK YOU
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Old June 27th, 2012, 05:59 PM   #115
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Default Re: Three ring Binder

Valve stems are good. It's the dry rot. These tires are only for moving it in and out of the shop and in and out of the paint booth. It held air for three to four days, so that's long enough for me.

In the end it will have either 35-12.5-15's or 37-12.5-17's. Haven't totally decided yet. But I have a long journey ahead of me before I cross that river... with a Scout, you don't need bridges!
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Old June 27th, 2012, 09:48 PM   #116
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Default Re: Three ring Binder

It's been a long journey already and nothing but a "how to keep air in tires" lecture has happened. More work...less BS!
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Old June 27th, 2012, 11:59 PM   #117
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Default Re: Three ring Binder

Y'all don't have to keep clicking on this thread...

I said from the start that many of you wouldn't get much out of this. I get paid once a month so parts purchases take a lot of planning. But when parts come in, there are a lot of parts all at once. I'm also doing this to teach my boys how to do it, and at the same time documenting it here for those who may not know.

Truth be told, I work on the Scout every day in one form or another. You don't wanna here about the measurements I've taken, the parts I'm tracking down, the three months it's taken to find the actual paint codes, the number of junk yards I've been through looking for just the right part...

You have to start somewhere, and the best place to start is with a clear title. If Tx. wasn't a bonded title state, I'd have it already. Then, so it doesn't just sit for years, I'm going to fix the major mechanicals and drive it while I find the rest of the parts. Once I have the new axles, I'll rebuild them and swap them in and drive it. Then when I get the new 345/T19cr/D20 I'll do the engine/trans/t-case swap. Each of those will be gone through and rebuilt so there are five more builds right there. Then there is the custom suspension, the body work, the paint, the wiring, the plating and power coating, and all the trim...

We're in no hurry here. Just having fun enjoying the 105*+ days working on the Scout as a family. The boys get tired, we quit. Y'all wanna see this thing built by leaps and bounds? Check the thread once a month.
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Old June 28th, 2012, 10:29 AM   #118
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Default Re: Three ring Binder

I think I'm the only one bitchin' Ray Dean and it's just because I'm stuck in the damn Czech Republic for a month...so far.....with nothing to do but watch others do cool stuff. You know I love ya man...just stayin' on your a$$ so all these boot lickers chiming in here don't give ya the big head! Proceed!
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Old June 30th, 2012, 08:18 PM   #119
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Default Re: Three ring Binder

During the power outage, I have finished all the brake lines, stripped the left side of the top, welded up a few spots on the hood, got the tail gate back into shape, reinstalled the top, replaced a water pump in an '07 F-150, and rebuilt the four remaining hydraulic cylinders on the backhoe... Wonder what I'm gonna do tomorrow.....
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Old June 30th, 2012, 08:23 PM   #120
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Default Re: Three ring Binder

I am almost finished recreating those blueprints for you.....If I had them done, that would give you something to do! I think a few more days though. I didn't have a hard copy to scan in, so I figured I would just redo them.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unkl Ian View Post
Don't be Fucking stupid.

The bolt is Fucked, it won't fix it's self,
the Bolt Fairy won't fix it, and you can't fix it.


I know there is a Full Moon, but quit Fucking around.
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Old June 30th, 2012, 08:33 PM   #121
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Default Re: Three ring Binder

It's all good. I had a guy call me about redoung the front suspension on his 66 Mustang. I quoted him $400 and he jumped on it. I may swing by and check that out tomorrow
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Old July 1st, 2012, 07:10 AM   #122
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Talking Re: Three ring Binder

Trying to sort out some alignment issues between my top and the tub. The top doesn't fit right and I believe I have found a few of the issues. First off, I think I have the top from an 800 sitting on my 80. The reason I feel this way is that there are seven mounting holes in the top to attach it to the windshield frame, and only five holes in the windshield frame itself. A PO has drilled five corresponding holes in the top, but they aren't totally placed right either.

Secondly, the rear hatch opening measures 41 1/4" wide at the top where the hatch hinge mounts, and only 40 15/16 at the bottom of the hatch. Then the tailgate opening of the tub measures 41 1/4" at the bottom where the tailgate hinges and 41 1/2" at the top of the bed rail.

So assuming that the opening is supposed to be 41 1/4", the top of the tub needs to be squeezed together 1/4" and the bottom of the travel top needs to be spread 5/16" to get proper alignment and even gaps.

Sounds simple enough right? Well, problem is, the top is made from .045" thick metal (not sure what gauge that is) and it's single thickness. There are no double walls in the top, just a few vertical pinch welds at the rear corners, and one continuous horizontal pinch weld at the top which creates the rain gutters. So the top is super flimsy when not bolted to the tub. Also, there are only two support "beams" in the roof. The front one welds to the top of the door frames on each end, but the one in the rear stops at the pinch weld between the roof and sides (i.e. the rain gutters). Then the bottom where the travel top attaches to the bed rail is only the same single thickness .045" metal with a 90* bend in it. This also adds to how flimsy the top is.

So to stiffen the top up in an attempt to make it better hold it's shape, the plan will be to first get the tailgate opening of the tub squared up. Once that is done, I will spread the top so that it lines back up properly and clamp it in place, and add some 2 1/2" x 1" x 1/4" angle iron to the bottom of the travel top. This should keep the sides from bowing in or out. Then, because I have a Scout 80 with a fixed back wall (i.e. non-walk through) I will add a piece of angle iron across the wall (located directly behind the bench seat) that will keep it from spreading or squeezing together at what would amount to the B pillars. As for the rear hatch area, I will be making the lower 2.5"x1"x1/4" angle iron so that it connects the side and back panels (right now it doesn't), and figuring out how to stiffen the hatch opening itself. And finally, I will be making two new header bows (beams) that will run from the base angle iron up, across the roof, and back blend the other side. One will be placed in front of and one behind the side window openings.

I know that this is a lot to take in with no pictures for reference, but I'll take a few and edit them in later.


Here we go Mikey. You ready for this?
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Old July 1st, 2012, 09:13 AM   #123
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Default Re: Three ring Binder

Instead of trying to fit pictures into the above post, I decided to just put them here.

First off the rear hatch/tailgate opening...

LEFT SIDE:







RIGHT SIDE:








As you can see, the hatch/tailgate gaps are WAY off.


Here is how the Travel Top mounts to the tub...










And this is the connection at the rear corners...






Like I said, it's real flimsy because there is no connection where the strength should be. And they were made like this. No one cut anything out or modified it in any way.

Here are the upper corners where the rear hatch hinge is attached. There is support for the hinge and the opening, but it only catches to the back wall. It should wrap around and connect to the sides to prevent flex.






These are the roof supports. The first two pics are the rear support. As you can see, they stop at the pinch weld that is the drip rail...










Now, because there is no structural rigidity, you get this...










Torn spit welds in the drip rail. But you also get this... Ripped sheet metal.








All that flex has to go somewhere...














So there you go. That's what I'm up against for my first "major" repair. I didn't take pics of the windshield area as this will come after I get the rear portion of the top squared away.

So you say "what does any of this have to do with my volksrod?" Well, as you can see, there is no bracing in the top which was designed to be removable. well, it's been removed a few times in it's life and now it doesn't fit correctly. The same thing happens when you cut the roof off your bug to chop the top. Things move! You have to strengthen shit up or you will run into problems like these. Now yes, you will be welding your roof back on instead of having it bolted down, however, that creates bigger problems for you. I have elongated holes that are made for slight adjustments (holes are 1" long, bolts are 5/16").

BRACE BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE TOP IF YOU WANT IT TO GO BACK ON RIGHT!!!

This concludes our over view of the syllabus for this semester class...
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Last edited by Ray-Dean; July 1st, 2012 at 09:18 AM.
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Old July 1st, 2012, 12:48 PM   #124
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Default Re: Three ring Binder

Almost appears the tub top in the rear needs to be pulled in then the top need to be tweaked out in the back some as well. Oh and looks like alot of the small issues i have seen on this unibody econo i have been working on. Oh and with you hillbilly ingenuity that will be a minor fix.
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Old July 1st, 2012, 01:15 PM   #125
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Default Re: Three ring Binder

2.5"x1"x.25" angle seems a little much...going to add some weight. Unless you plan on taking the top off/on a lot I would think 3/16" or even 1/8" would be sufficient.. Are you going to make the ribs out of sheetmetal?
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