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Old March 5th, 2017, 04:42 PM   #301
V8Transporter
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Default Re: Effigy's history

"Nope not a high tech trick, just some trick your tech might try,,, if he is high"

Hmm, actually, I don't have a 'tech.' I've been running a now ancient Mallory dual point distributor on the Single Cab's V8 since, um, the mid-eighties. I keep at least one new spare set around and last summer I even installed new points. Woo, hoo!
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Old March 5th, 2017, 05:29 PM   #302
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Default Re: Effigy's history

Shit, out where we are, I can smell that crap when the wind is just wrong...Great, now I have this craving for chocolate chip cookies...
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Old March 12th, 2017, 07:34 AM   #303
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Default Re: Effigy's history

So I think my Bosch Digital timing light shit itself.. My Actron plain timing light (non-digital) works fine, but the digital one still sparks when I connect it and the engine tries to die while it's connected..

I decided to do some random tinkering.. Using the etched degree wheel on the JayCee pulley, I set the distributor to what should have been 15BTDC.. It started up and idled, so I hit it with the plain strobe timing light and it was strobing at 20BTDC.. I'm guessing maybe the distributor gear is a tooth off or something?

Gonna need to get a new timing light so I can actually dial it in some..
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Old April 2nd, 2017, 09:02 AM   #304
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Default Re: Effigy's history

So I finally got it to idle.. seems to only want to stay running with timing at about 17BTDC, all in at about 32BTDC.. that doesn't seem right at all to me..

carbs are set up like this right now: 57idles/120 mains/200 AC

just about one turn out on all screws..

idles at like 1500rpm which is way too high..

drove it around the block earlier this week and it dies at every stop sign..

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Old April 3rd, 2017, 07:37 AM   #305
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Default Re: Effigy's history

It's been so long since I've worked on a VW dual carb setup that my advice is worthless. How do the plugs look?
Meanwhile...avoid the stop signs?
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Old April 3rd, 2017, 08:31 AM   #306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8Transporter View Post
It's been so long since I've worked on a VW dual carb setup that my advice is worthless. How do the plugs look?
Meanwhile...avoid the stop signs?
haven't pulled any plugs yet since it's only ran for maybe 20 minutes total since i put those plugs in.. I imagine any reading would be inaccurate because of that 20 minutes, maybe 3 of it was sustained idling..

I put out an offer of pizza and beer to anyone in the local vw clubs willing to come over and help me out. maybe it's just something stupid that I need a second set of eyes to see..
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Old April 3rd, 2017, 05:22 PM   #307
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Default Re: Effigy's history

I did a lot of reading about dual carbs, my carbs are single barrel solex but I'm sure most are set the same
First I take them off the manifolds, then I use a 0.001" or a 0.002" feelers gauges & set the butterfly plates on both carbs using the idle adjustment screws until the gauge slides out with the same amount of drag, that way both plates are set open the exact same amount, don't touch these screws again until you get the air/fuel mixture screws set right
Bolt them back on & set the air/fuel mixture screws the same number of turns, I go 3 turns out
Then I start the car & start adjusting the mixture screws, I can't remember off the top of my head, but I'm pretty sure you turn them out until the idle starts to drop, then in until it reaches it's highest point, then or out, I forget which until the car drops like 25 RPM or something like that, I'd hafta go dig out my note book, some people say they can hear 25 RPM, I've read you should use a tacometeter for this, me, I just play it by ear
I go to the other side & do the other carb the same way
Then I get out my carb syncronizing tool (I have a cheap one with the little glass tube with an air bubble kinda like a level) I set the bubble to the line on one side, remove it & go to the other side & set it on the other carb, hopefully they are both close to the same, if not I play with the mixture screw trying to get them the same but I only turn the screws so they make it a little bit rich until both are the same
Then I go back & slowly adjust the idle screws to bring the idle down only moving the screw a 1/4 of a turn at a time moving the syncronizer tool to each side until it idles where you want it & the syncronizer reads the same on both sides

I read it's better to have an air cooled engine a bit rich rather than lean, I've stuck with that now for 35 years with no problems, my Volksrod starts & once warm it runs fine during the hot Ohio summers as well as during the super cold Ohio winters & had been now for the last 6 years & 19 days, probably at least 10 to 12 thousand miles, or, I'm just lucky

I also watched a good friend who is by far the best all around mechanic on any internal combustion engine (as well as any kind or type of mechanical object) adjust the dual carbs on his 62 Corvair using nothing but his ears & a screwdriver, he tried my carb syncronizer for a few minutes, then gave it back & said with the changes in temps & humidity you don't need a fancy carb syncronizer unless your planning to race it competitively

Good luck


Ron
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Old April 5th, 2017, 09:35 AM   #308
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Default Re: Effigy's history

Matt,

Pull out your idle jets and make sure they are clean - a little piece of dirt can get in there and screw it all up. Pull each plug and make sure it is clean and not a "wet" plug. Doesn't matter how long they have been in there. If you are having adjustment issues, you can drown a plug. Same with the idle jets. I have had dirt in brand new ones, got dirt in one two days after I had them running great.

Make sure you disconnect all the linkage before you start adjusting.

If you have it idling at 1500 - it is a slow, methodical process of working with the mixture to get it "good" and then adjusting your idle down and getting it good again. I use the snail - and I cheat a bit. I have two of them - so I can match each side without having to go back and forth.

I start 1 1/4 out (Spanish Webers - 44mm) and then go IN until it starts to choke or die - then back out 1/4 turn. Make sure you are turning the screw slowly - I go 1/8 of a turn and pause for effect - then go in again.

It usually takes me about 15 minutes to get them dialed in. Once you have them close, turn the idle down. If the mix is off and you try to turn the idle down, you will begin to chase your tail.

Only turn down the idle down to where you are still firing on all four - then start the mixture and repeat until you get it idling where you want - both sides are even and the mixture is 1/4 turn OUT on each cylinder from where it sputters.

Then take it around the block a few times, under load, go back to the driveway, recheck to make sure it is all still where you want it - if not, repeat.

If you seem to be chasing a moving target, recheck your valves (everyone I have told that to always says that they are good - and then the next day when they can't get it - I check the valves and find that they are off).

It is usually the simple things that just need to be checked - and rechecked.

I'm at 5,000 feet - and usually end up about 3/4 out (but I still start at 1 1/4 out when adjusting)

And I have drowned a cylinder in under 5 minutes if the mixture is way off.


And I like Polynesian BBQ chicken pizza
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Old April 5th, 2017, 01:55 PM   #309
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Quote:
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And I like Polynesian BBQ chicken pizza
That's not pizza...
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Old April 6th, 2017, 05:32 AM   #310
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Default Re: Effigy's history

Thanks for correcting me Keith as I mentioned I didn't have my notebook, I SHOULD have grabbed it before opening my mouth

I do know cleaning everything is a "must do" that goes without saying, new carbs should always be taken apart & cleaned, my friend also told me to take all the paper gaskets & go over both sides with chapstick, help preserve them & helps seal them as long as you get no dirt on them
The valves are a must as well as timing

I know it can be tedious, you just hafta take you time, have lots of patients, then go back & triple check everything

The one thing I haven't done is compensate for my altitude, I need to reject it accordingly, my carport slab is right around 849 feet if my memory serves, back in 04 when they replaced our storm sewers system they had a stake in my front yard with the height on it, my carport is about 12" to 16" higher, it's out in my garage on a workbench somewhere, might take me 2 or 3 hours to find it
Around here there are lots of hills, just rather crude guesstimate I'd say it may average up or down 20 to 30 feet most places I drive
I'm happy with how it runs, IF I ever build a larger engine with the case I precision machined back in 98, I decked the cylinder surface within 0.0003" from the centerline of the crankshaft when I was still working, I'd run bigger & better dual carbs I'd definitely take the time to do it right

2-1/2 years on that 1600 engine y'all got me, it has just under 8000 miles on it & still going strong

Again, I'm glad you corrected me, I should a grabbed my notebook before saying what I did, I'd a had him all screwed up


Ron
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Old April 6th, 2017, 12:22 PM   #311
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Default Re: Effigy's history

Quote:
Originally Posted by hotrodheb View Post
That's not pizza...
...said the guy from CA

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unkl Ian View Post
Don't be Fucking stupid.

The bolt is Fucked, it won't fix it's self,
the Bolt Fairy won't fix it, and you can't fix it.


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Old April 6th, 2017, 01:41 PM   #312
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Could someone explain what part isn't pizza?
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Old June 12th, 2017, 08:41 AM   #313
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had a buddy from a local VW club swing by yesterday morning.. he's never heard of setting chromoly push rods to loose zero, so we loosened em up to .006. He's also never worked with MSD, so we set the plug gaps to .026 (I had always read that with it being a hotter more consistent spark, you want them at about .035-.040..). and Lastly, we set the mixture screws to 1.25 turns out (I had always set them at 2 turns out to get it going, then turned them in until they ran right to tune them.. but yeah, normally you want them between 1 and 1.25 turns out..)

We blew air through the idle jets and idle circuits, and got it to fire up and idle first try, every try, so I thanked him for his help and he left..

I drove it around the block, but while gunning it down the road in second, I hit 4k rpms, heard a tiny popping sound, and it stopped revving higher, started sputtering, and died as i coasted into my driveway..

My guess it something squeezed through the carbs and clogged shit up again. Gonna have to yank the carbs and blow through all circuits and clean the bowls out again..

so close!
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1972 VolksRod "Effigy" Build Thread
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Old July 9th, 2017, 09:58 AM   #314
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well, I figured out a little of the backfire issue...

turns out the nuts on the #1 exhaust were coming off... I lost one, the other was half off and I had about a 1/2 inch gap between the pipe and the head..

put that back on and it still pops a little at idle, not a gunshot pop, just a low puff type pop..

also have to get it to back down from a 1500rpm idle.. think i need to loosen/adjust my sync link cable some, the arm isn't even touching the idle stop right now..
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1972 VolksRod "Effigy" Build Thread
1986 Honda Shadow VT1100 Work Thread
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Old July 9th, 2017, 06:01 PM   #315
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Default Re: Effigy's history

Sounds to me like you're on the right track for both issues.
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Old August 1st, 2017, 05:26 AM   #316
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been driving the bug to/from work the last few days..

haven't had a chance to tweak it at all. Our house in California is in escrow now, so hopefully that goes through without issue.. trying to pay two mortages on one income sucks.. :/

once it sells though, I'm gonna get a wideband gauge and sensor and try and dial the bug in.. I think it's running rich right now.. idles at about 1500rpm still, pops out the exhaust at idle and a little between 1800-2200rpm.. basically, anywhere the throttle is less than a 1/3 down.. once you get half throttle or more, it pulls hard and runs great..
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1972 VolksRod "Effigy" Build Thread
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Old August 26th, 2017, 06:14 AM   #317
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gauges, gauges, gauges!

So we sold our rental house in California.. used the little bit of profit we got to pay off 90% of our credit debt, saved some for next years income taxes, and are buying some shit we want, vs shit we need..

My oil temp gauge hasn't worked for years, so I'm gonna start at the sensor and replace it, then replace the gauge, but in the mean time, I'm adding more shit to the system to further complicate things, cause that's how i roll :P

I just ordered this wideband:
http://www.plxdevices.com/Wideband-O...7346002719.htm

but I bought it on Amazon for $169 instead of $189

and I ordered this stuff:
http://thesensorconnection.com/gauge...yrometer-gauge

http://thesensorconnection.com/cht-s...e-12-and-14-mm

Gonna need to pull the engine again so I can hit the heads with a dremel and make little notches on the plug holes so the ring sensors don't spin around.

I'm thinking I'll buy some threaded rod that matches the plug threads, remove the plugs, put the rod in to keep shit from falling in the cylinder, and hit it with compressed air while i dremel to blow the debris away..

Also, while the engine is out, I'll fix all the access holes in the rear fender well area to make it easier to reach shit, and put doors on them so they can seal the compartment up again. Currently I just drive around with big holes back there.. :P

Then I have to buy a new fuel tank sender cause mine is kinda jacked, the wires are all broken so it jumps from full to half and then meanders a bit before showing empty at like 1/4 tank..

stay tuned for progress as shit shows up and i get off my ass to work on it :P
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1972 VolksRod "Effigy" Build Thread
1986 Honda Shadow VT1100 Work Thread
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Old August 26th, 2017, 07:15 PM   #318
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Default Re: Effigy's history

Going all out, I sure would like to have the CHT stuff but it's way out of my price range

Now that my oil temp gauge reads just a bit under 200* F
it runs much better, before it would never go over 180* it still runs just a bit rich but then again I haven't had it running long when it's in the 90's yet
You think your fuel sender is crazy, I just use a 3/8" diameter welding rod, I have one of those black 10 gallon poly tanks with no way to check it, I kinda like the looks I get when checking my tank at the gas station

You also brought up about you exhaust coming loose from the heads and your car backfiring, my first Bug I had that problem, plus one of my studs was broken which made it loosen that much easier, if I would wind it out in 2nd gear when somebody was riding my ass, at just the right time I'd let off the pedal and it would shoot a 3 to 4 foot flame straight back at them with a pretty loud boom, they'd back off in a hurry, it was nice n blue at night with a yellow tip, I only got pulled over once for it and asked if it was on purpose or accident, ya know what I said, I thought it was cool at 16

I wanna see how all the fancy stuff works, I read a bit about it, maybe one day I'll get something like it, I always thought it was kinda cool when my son's friend hooked his Honda up to a laptop and changed stuff around, sure made his lil car go fast


Ron
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Old August 28th, 2017, 04:26 PM   #319
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had duty yesterday, but i guess the AFR gauge came sunday and the CHT stuff arrived today :D

I only slept an hour last night though because of watch, and we're getting ready for a shitshow of a rain storm, so i won't be working on it tonight, but hopefully sometime this week i'll get a chance.. not likely though, work hours are until 1630 so i won't be home before 1800 all week and i have duty again on saturday.. :/
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1972 VolksRod "Effigy" Build Thread
1986 Honda Shadow VT1100 Work Thread
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Old August 30th, 2017, 04:58 PM   #320
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So I decided to do some gauge work..

ripped out the Ammeter that has never been hooked up (it had power going to it so it lit up but wasn't connected to anything..), and replaced it with a 4-channel aircraft CHT gauge. Got it wired so it powers on when I flip the switch for my fuel pump. Next step is gonna be to yank the engine again, remove the plugs, put some threaded rod in the plug holes to keep shit out of the cylinders, have someone aim the air compressor at it while i dremel a notch to hold to CHT probe rings, run the probes from the gauge to the engine compartment and reinstall everything..



Since I'm monitoring all four cylinders now, I'm wondering if an oil temp gauge is gonna do me any more good.. I need a gauge hole to put the wideband gauge in. it's the same size as the oil temp gauge.. otherwise I'll have to make a panel for the left side of the speedo (current panel has a tach that doesn't work..) or buy a right side panel with the correct size hole..
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1972 VolksRod "Effigy" Build Thread
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Old August 31st, 2017, 08:53 AM   #321
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Default Re: Effigy's history

Corks or break the porcelain off some old plugs to use while you dremel. Maybe add some heavy grease to the threads to help catch any loose shavings. Just a thought and cheaper than buying some threaded rod and then having to cut it.
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Old August 31st, 2017, 01:03 PM   #322
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The above is excellent advice. Works too!
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