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Old December 16th, 2004, 08:57 AM   #76
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Brasilian (I think)


Gol:



one-offs

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Old December 16th, 2004, 09:26 AM   #77
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Nick,

The top is definitely from a T1 based Brasilia.

The bottom two are converted Type4s in case anyone is interested in those.

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Old December 16th, 2004, 12:09 PM   #78
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the second on up isnt a one off, its a reichart horisontal porsche fan kit for the type 4.
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Old December 16th, 2004, 06:19 PM   #79
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I have always wanted one of these. I have even considered chopping a stock shroud into one.

Also just a thought, the guy that owns this red beetle with a shortened and raises rear axle. He's in Orlando and its been in quite a few magazines.... anywya he cut notches in his shroud to clear the hinge brackets. I know he didn't channel the body and all that. But it is an option to consider in addition to a different shroud.
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Old December 16th, 2004, 08:46 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally posted by oldskool+Dec 16 2004, 09:17 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(oldskool @ Dec 16 2004, 09:17 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-Top_Fuel_Thomas@Dec 16 2004, 08:42 AM
[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/bowdown.gif[/img]
that is a bloody fantastic idea


thanks alot i think i might do that!



look at all that room!

TFTom
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>

...until you factor in the size a radiator... and the fact that it needs air flow!
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
[/b][/quote]

dude, you cut the whole fucking front apron area out of your car. You don't have room for a fuckin radiator. mustang radiators are small and kick ass.
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Old December 17th, 2004, 05:43 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally posted by PAPA_SMURF@Dec 16 2004, 09:46 PM
dude, you cut the whole fucking front apron area out of your car. You don't have room for a fuckin radiator. mustang radiators are small and kick ass.
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
Nope. The axle goes way up front, and all the suspension will be inboard. The front area that was open for the suspension will be all sheeted in.

I wasn't raining on the H20 parade, I am actually quite a fan of them (I've owned 2 H20 Parts companies). I was just reminding them that there are extra pieces to be aware of--- what was pictured was not a complete waterboxer setup.

Anyway, let's try and keep this thread on topic. It's about channeling, and it's in the 'too lazy for search' thread... so it needs to stay kinda to the point. Nobody wants to wade thru 5 pages of arguing to find the info. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumbsup.gif[/img]
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Old December 21st, 2004, 08:53 PM   #82
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Finally, some more pics I promised.


On this pic you see that I cut the pan in half and trimmed the front and rear pan bulkheads to get the body down to where we needed it. You can barely see the part that was cut out, it's just sitting in there for fit.


in this pic, you cen see the pan half resting in the car unwelded... look to the rear bulkhead-- see that primer? under there is a 1x1x8" of square tubing to act like a spacer. It's not a strong enough area to cary the weight of the car, tho. We'll add that later.


Here you can see the floor welded in place, and a patch panel needs to be made for that naked corner where the pan lifts up. Look closely into that corner and you'll see the weld on the previously mentioned 1x1" tube. It's covered in weld-thru primer. Oh, BTW--- does anyone else get crazy splatter when using weld-thru primer? The welds look awful whereever I use it... that section that looks like I chewed thru it was the old jacking point. Incase you hadn't guessed--- it's got to come out first!


You can really see the amount of the drop in this pic. I still need to make some patch panels where the side is open. Why? I dunno. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/Idunno.gif[/img] Just gotta do that.


Where the floors end up! you can see that I still need to remove the other half of the seat bracket and finish that weld.


Still got lots more to go, I'll takes pics of the bracing and the package tray work I'm going to do when I get back from cold-ass New Jersey for the holidays. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/ohmy.gif[/img]
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Old December 21st, 2004, 10:05 PM   #83
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awesome work man!! the welds are nothing a grinder and some sanding disks and a die grinder cant fix...
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Old December 21st, 2004, 10:09 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally posted by PAPA_SMURF@Dec 21 2004, 11:05 PM
awesome work man!! the welds are nothing a grinder and some sanding disks and a die grinder cant fix...
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
I was excited to put a set in the car and make vroom, vroom noises, so I left the grinding for later.

Then, while making those noises, I thought about just bedlining right over them for that 'C-section scar' look. Kinda like a badge of courage. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/stoned.gif[/img]
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Old December 21st, 2004, 10:25 PM   #85
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leaving the welds would be cool. total rat style. You shoulda left the welds on the roof too, that would have been tight.
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Old December 22nd, 2004, 03:49 AM   #86
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chris - thanx a ton for those pix. i'm sitting here with massive wood right now (glad nobody else has gotten to work yet [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/blink.gif[/img] ), what is your thought on the body being permanently welded to the pan? do you see it presenting any possible long term problems????
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Old December 22nd, 2004, 06:51 AM   #87
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Yeah man, thanks for taking the time to take pics and post them! I also think welding it all together may be a good plan...anybody have an opinion? [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/confused.gif[/img]
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Old December 22nd, 2004, 07:00 AM   #88
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checked V-rods right before I'm hopping on a plane.... yep, addicted!


Anyway- the car will be a unibody. The other side of the front bulkhead is already welded to the pan and so are the floors. the rear is next.

The only problem I saw was that the torsion housing would be 'buried' under the body, and that would make it impossible to adjust/ replace parts. I'm going to clearance the side so I can get to it, I haven't decided on how--- either like a beetle (visable) or like a Ghia/ T3 (behind a little panel).

Other than that, the car will be a lot like a unibody H20 Car...

I may do a 'mini cage' later-- -basically a hoop extending up from the torsion housing and braced to the frame horns and the sills at the door--- there'd be a few tabs attaching to the body.

As far as ground/ unground welds... I want a finished car. The original plan was to leave it ugly, but at this point I'd like it to look good. If I do leave the welds unground on the inside, they will be painted/ covered with bedliner... all the welds will be a 'reminder' of what went on. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smilespin.gif[/img]
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Old December 22nd, 2004, 07:40 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally posted by vwfanatic@Dec 22 2004, 04:49 AM
what is your thought on the body being permanently welded to the pan? do you see it presenting any possible long term problems????
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
I hope it is never a problem, 'cause that is how my truck was done as well!!!


Oldskool, [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/bowdown.gif[/img] That is looking SWEET! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/bowdown.gif[/img]


PapaSmurf, Is your avatar a little teaser of what you car is looking like now???
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Old December 22nd, 2004, 08:40 PM   #90
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tee...hee...hee....


I'll never tell.......
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Old December 22nd, 2004, 08:52 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally posted by PAPA_SMURF@Dec 22 2004, 09:40 PM
tee...hee...hee....


I'll never tell.......
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
If that is what it's going to look like, it is going to blow away a lot of people at the next bugorama! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/Dancing.gif[/img]
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Old December 22nd, 2004, 09:02 PM   #92
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I think I will be at paso this year.......haven't decided. I dont think they will even know its a bug anymore so I shouldn't get any flack from the gate nazi's
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Old December 23rd, 2004, 06:19 PM   #93
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Weld through Primer. Are you talking about the Cold Galvanizing Primer ?

If so I got a tip, not for welding but for using that stuff. If you look at the head of the spray cap there is a small little plastic piece where the paint comes out. Is you take a small screw or a small drill and slowly turn it into the hole the small plastic piece will come out. This gives you a little hole that the WD-40 tubes will fit into.

What this is good for is you can bend the hell out of the tubes and spray up inside body panels to protect the backsides of your welds. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumbsup.gif[/img]

This will work better for you if you use a extra tip, that way you will still be able to use the normal spray tip as well although I haven't noticed to much difference with out the plastic thing. Just remember to clean out your tubes.

Hope this helps someone.
Oh yeah great work guys, I have been trying to explain this to a friend of mine and I can't seem to get him to check out this site. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wacko.gif[/img]
I'll keep trying though.
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Old May 29th, 2005, 12:06 PM   #94
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Mr Oldschool,

How many inches did you channel that car? Thanks.
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