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Old July 22nd, 2005, 09:16 AM   #1
squidfire
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Right, I had a quick search for lead loading, and as I couldn't find a great deal I thought I would make a little 'how to' for all those people who have never tried it.
I'm not the best at it, but I thought it may help someone - at some point!

Right, where to start. I'm currently at the end of my roop chop, I've just spent the last 3 weeks doing it (All text and pics in my intro).
I had a slight dip in the middle of the roof where I welded the filler piece in, I used a hammer and dolly to get most of it out, but the join still needed a bit of work....this is where the lead comes in. I could use cheap fibreglass filler, but due to this area being a high flexing area - lead is perfect for this. Lead is also waterproof, unlike normal fibregalss filler, so will last (if put on properly) for year and years.

1. I used the grinder with a wire wheel and took back the primer and old paint and filler , right back to the bare metal. It must be bare metal to work properly.


A couple of things you need - Some tinning paste, a maple spatula, a moleskin cloth...as well as a blow torch, hand files and tallow. Oh and a stick of lead, which is a proper mix of tin and lead, not normal plumbers lead.


2. Apply a coat of the tinning paste to the bare metal, a larger area than you plan to cover with lead. It can be brushed on cold with a normal brush.


3. Gently heat the surface with a blow torch, until it starts to tin the metal...


4. When you have done the entire surface, rub the moleskin over the top to reveal a nice 'tinned' surface for the lead to stick to


5. Heat the tinned surface, and heat the lead stick at the same time...


6. When you notice it change colour and consistancy dab it on the surface and 'screw' it onto the surface, so it breaks off easily. Do this in a few places and put down more than you need


7. This bit takes some time, heat up the bits you want to work with and lay it out with the maple paddle thing, making sure you use tallow to cover the end of the paddle. You can get special tallow, but I find normal butter works fine!
Keep heating and working it until you get it good enough


8. This is what I ended up with, just from using the paddle


9. I used some standard body metal files to take the top off and get it nice and flat, you must not use power tools, lead in the air is not good!



Well I hope that helped somebody, please have a look at my build up if you are interested. My Build Up

It would be great if everyone got the tools and set aside a couple of hours to learn this skill as it is a dying art - I'm gonna keep at it!
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Old July 22nd, 2005, 09:20 AM   #2
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I got all my lead loading stuff from Frost:
http://www.frost.co.uk/
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Old July 22nd, 2005, 09:20 AM   #3
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nice looks good chris, hmmm maybe i'll ditch the bondo on the buggy and lead it up [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumbsup.gif[/img]
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Old July 22nd, 2005, 09:22 AM   #4
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Thanks, yeah lead it, to be honest it isn't really much heavier than the glass fibre filler, half of it ends up on the floor anyway once you've filed it back.

I know a lot of people want to keep the car as light as possible, but I've only used about .1kg so far - before filing it back
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Old July 22nd, 2005, 09:24 AM   #5
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A couple of us were talking about this a short while ago.

Eastwood sells a complete kit for this! $159.99!

Eastwood Lead kit


I watched someone do this years ago - I might have to get one of these kits!!!
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Old July 22nd, 2005, 09:25 AM   #6
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At the cost of sounding like a puss...... a 'friend' of mine wanted to know if you should wear a mask while youre working with hot lead. You know,.... not that I would be worried about it..... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/unsure.gif[/img]
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Old July 22nd, 2005, 09:27 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by hotrodheb@Jul 22 2005, 06:24 PM
A couple of us were talking about this a short while ago.

Eastwood sells a complete kit for this! $159.99!

Eastwood Lead kit


I watched someone do this years ago - I might have to get one of these kits!!!
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
Wow that's one hell of a kit!! I want it!

Frost do one about half that size I think for the UK people.
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Old July 22nd, 2005, 09:28 AM   #8
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well see chris my thing is, if and aint metal, its not going on the body lol, i dont want bondo or glass on it, i want a full metal body
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Old July 22nd, 2005, 09:29 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by StinkEye@Jul 22 2005, 06:25 PM
At the cost of sounding like a puss...... a 'friend' of mine wanted to know if you should wear a mask while youre working with hot lead. You know,.... not that I would be worried about it..... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/unsure.gif[/img]
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
I did, cos I'm a wuss.... but I don't want lead poisoning either, the dust does get everywhere, even using hand tools. I was covered in it.
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Old July 22nd, 2005, 09:29 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by squidfire+Jul 22 2005, 10:29 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(squidfire @ Jul 22 2005, 10:29 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-StinkEye@Jul 22 2005, 06:25 PM
At the cost of sounding like a puss...... a 'friend' of mine wanted to know if you should wear a mask while youre working with hot lead. You know,.... not that I would be worried about it..... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/unsure.gif[/img]
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
I did, cos I'm a wuss.... but I don't want lead poisoning either, the dust does get everywhere, even using hand tools. I was covered in it.
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
[/b][/quote]

u shoulda worn gloves to [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/FreakinSmiley.gif[/img]
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Old July 22nd, 2005, 09:59 AM   #11
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I have now added this to the too lazy to search thread! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumbsup.gif[/img]

Great info!!! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/bowdown.gif[/img]
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Old July 22nd, 2005, 10:08 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by hotrodheb@Jul 22 2005, 06:59 PM
I have now added this to the too lazy to search thread! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumbsup.gif[/img]

Great info!!! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/bowdown.gif[/img]
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/cool.gif[/img]
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Old July 22nd, 2005, 10:09 AM   #13
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chris what about gloves? did u wear them?
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Old July 22nd, 2005, 10:22 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by 75bugrod@Jul 22 2005, 07:09 PM
chris what about gloves? did u wear them?
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
Nah, only when the stick of lead got really short!

But yeah - wear gloves kids [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]
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Old July 22nd, 2005, 10:24 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by squidfire+Jul 22 2005, 11:22 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(squidfire @ Jul 22 2005, 11:22 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-75bugrod@Jul 22 2005, 07:09 PM
chris what about gloves? did u wear them?
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
Nah, only when the stick of lead got really short!

But yeah - wear gloves kids [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
[/b][/quote]

so much for protection against poisoning



if u die can i ahve all the stuff u dont sell on ebay..... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img]
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Old July 22nd, 2005, 10:31 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by 75bugrod@Jul 22 2005, 07:24 PM
if u die can i ahve all the stuff u dont sell on ebay..... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img]
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
What my photo collection?!!

I'll post worldwide! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img]
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Old July 22nd, 2005, 10:57 AM   #17
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Cool how-to,
just few things to add:
- once the lead is laid on the metal, you ve got to protect it from rust (on both sides)because acid remains on the sides.

- never rub it using a sawzall
- always wear a mask while rubbing it, it gives cancer just like paint or bondo...
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Old July 22nd, 2005, 10:59 AM   #18
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Thanks for the addition Romain,
I'd heard you should quench the hot metal with a rag and cold water, which helps to get rid of the acid too.
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Old July 22nd, 2005, 12:49 PM   #19
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Thanks for the info [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumbsup.gif[/img]

That is a lost art.

What are your plans with the hole in your roof? I would think if you are welding in a patch panel or a sunroof then the work you are doing will melt off.
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Old July 22nd, 2005, 01:26 PM   #20
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Cool thread, I like what you done. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumbsup.gif[/img]

I am impressed with Leadwork and may give it try one day, however its obsolete for a reason. I don't blame anyone for not wanting to use bondo.... but there are points where its more trouble than its worth. Sometimes Nostalgia is Masochism.

I would seriously weigh the alternatives before I decided it has to be lead. I can't see where I would want to put that much work into the body of a car unless it was something really special. I don't blame anyone form using lead I just don't know if the advatages are really worth all the extra work. I am just not sures its really worth it in most cases. Polyester Body fillers have come along way and theres alternatives to that as well, including metal filled fillers. So the alternative to Leading has more advatages than disavantages nowadays.

Have to agrre thats its damn cool though and Have always liked to see Bill Hines do his work in magazine articles. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumbsup.gif[/img] I will most likely be copying al of the info on this as its comes up.

Would have been perfect for my 'Vert Decklid project.

Damn I feel like Lib, I am for it but I am also against it . [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img]
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Old July 22nd, 2005, 01:30 PM   #21
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they also make lead free body solder kits



*click the pic

its a lil more pricey but safer, and stronger
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Old July 22nd, 2005, 04:31 PM   #22
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Great post, I'll need to try it out. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/bowdown.gif[/img] Need to get s torch first though. Will Mapp or one of those disposable Home Depot units be enough or just spend the extra $$ and get a real oxy setup?

Also I hear you have to primeer it w/in a few hours or it won't stick (if you try t primer it the next day or later), unless you sand down the surface again before painting it in the future. Hopefully someone here will clairify this better.
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Old July 22nd, 2005, 04:48 PM   #23
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Theres no "being a wus" when it comes to bondo dust, fiberglass dust, lead work, paint, or clearcoats. Wear a fucking respirator!!! Or the required protection!!! Do it, or screw your lungs, your choice. When you deal with "toxins" on a daily basis you're not a wus for wearing protection, you're a moron if you dont.

and leadwork required a respirator, no matter what the old timers tell you!
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Old July 22nd, 2005, 05:21 PM   #24
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Hey nick get a real torch set up. The small cary around plumbing kits will be empty so fast you'll spend more time exchanging tanks then you will actually using them. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img]
Plus I don't think they come with a good assortment of tips or even a cutting torch either.

Sho around there are plenty of good Knock of UL Listed torches out there for a reasonable price. I got one. Now I just gotta get some tanks. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rollingeyes.gif[/img]

I was thinking that if I were to use as much lead as I have Bondo my car would double in weight. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img]

Seriously though I really wish my work was good enough to warrant leading in the first place. Maybe some day........
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Old July 22nd, 2005, 10:24 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nick@Jul 23 2005, 01:31 AM
Great post, I'll need to try it out. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/bowdown.gif[/img] Need to get s torch first though. Will Mapp or one of those disposable Home Depot units be enough or just spend the extra $$ and get a real oxy setup?
I've just got a blowtorch attached to a 3.9 Propane bottle, round stubby thing, I've had it for years. I guess those little ones would be ok, but like he said you'll get through them pretty quick.

If I had the money I'd get the full oxy kit, definately
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