Adapter update wide five to early ford - Cut-Weld-Drive Forums

c1run1 · September 15th, 2009, 12:17 PM

well I tested my wheels and adapters out today and i'm 100% happy with everything .
I'll need to get a longer VW stud( bolt) but other then that they fit perfict .
I updated the tech Bin with this information : )

My total was 405.00 delivered .

Call Lenny At :
Motorsport Technology
SURE-FIT WHEEL ADAPTERS
(909) 514-0091

Tell Him Joe P sent ya >>>

BattleBug · September 15th, 2009, 01:08 PM

So OK, what we need to do here is see if we can get him in on the coalition or possibly group discounts. The adapters look great!

**Unkl Ian** · September 15th, 2009, 01:42 PM

Don't they need a lip to locate the wheel ?
Pretty sure Ford did it that way.

dezertevo · September 15th, 2009, 01:58 PM

hubcentric style wheels correct? also, what yrs would those adaptors fit?

c1run1 · September 15th, 2009, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BattleBug

So OK, what we need to do here is see if we can get him in on the coalition or possibly group discounts. The adapters look great!

I'm not sure about that i can ask , they where pretty cheap already at 95.00 a each.

c1run1 · September 15th, 2009, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unkl Ian

Don't they need a lip to locate the wheel ?
Pretty sure Ford did it that way.

I checked the lip there's no contact area on it as there is on the 5 mounting serfaces where the studs are .

(" what yrs would those adaptors fit?")

Mine is a 61 he had an early drum with the cone to work off of.
I may test it later on my 56 .

c1run1 · September 16th, 2009, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dezertevo

hubcentric style wheels correct? also, what yrs would those adaptors fit?

No Lug Centric

UT-X · September 16th, 2009, 12:42 PM

Just ordered mine!

Have them in about 10 days.

Thanks Joe!

DrivenBuggy · September 16th, 2009, 02:19 PM

What does one of those weigh? That looks like a lot of mass moving up and down with the wheel.

??

metalmaster1766 · September 17th, 2009, 08:02 PM

wow, $95,00 each, $405.00 delivered, i should make some of those and sell them to you guys,

what are they made of? looks like aluminum to me, if i knew the way those old wheels fit on i would make a few sets and make some extra cash, then maybe i wouldnt be flat broke anymore, i also have all the time in the day to make whatever i want, i so wish i could go back to work, it gets boring talking to ones self, the radio has gotten old a long time ago, now i just talk to myself, sometimes i even answer, other than that my neighbors probably think im crazy because i talk to the dog like he is a helper in my shop

it will be 9 years this October 3rd since i had to quit working, i have a perfectly good reason why i cant work, but if i could id give my left nut to be able to go back to work in the machine shop, i had to get my own machines to make me feel like im working, otherwise i almost feel useless

ok carry on

**Unkl Ian** · September 17th, 2009, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by metalmaster1766

wow, $95,00 each, $405.00 delivered, i should make some of those and sell them to you guys,

what are they made of? looks like aluminum to me, if i knew the way those old wheels fit on i would make a few sets and make some extra cash,

Have you priced out 6"+ billet Aluminum lately ?
Add in the studs, machine time, the numbers go up quick.

**Hebster52** · September 17th, 2009, 11:00 PM

Dont you need a kind of a support ring just inside the fort studs? Like the ones discussed in the threads below?

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...wheel+adapters

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...wheel+adapters

66 Shorty · September 18th, 2009, 03:54 AM

From those posts on the HAMB it seems really easy to fab up the required rings to go on with the adapters, but, I would rather it incorperated into the adapter, especially for $95.00 each. & Yes, just as Unkl said, 6160-T6 Aluminum @ 6" dia. , plus machining, & studs all cost $$$!

It almost looks liek it would be better to counterbore the holes around the stud holes & it would all sit flat to the rim instead of just a ring around the inside dia...

I could be WAY off though... I have not even seen the rims in front of me to make an educated guess on them. Just seen the pics posted on those threads.

**Hebster52** · September 18th, 2009, 05:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 66 Shorty

It almost looks liek it would be better to counterbore the holes around the stud holes & it would all sit flat to the rim instead of just a ring around the inside dia...

I could be WAY off though... I have not even seen the rims in front of me to make an educated guess on them. Just seen the pics posted on those threads.

Counterbore the adapters dont work.
If you check the wheels in the threads I posted you see that outside of the wheels there is a small surface that is the same height as the spacer rings mentioned above. That is the reason for the rings in the first place.

66 Shorty · September 18th, 2009, 05:35 AM

AHH, I see! After looking at the pics again, I see it's raised outside the lug holes as well as around the holes. It does make sence! But, I would still think the ring should be incorperated in the adapter design, instead of adding the ring afterward. But, the ring does serve it's purpose!

metalmaster1766 · September 18th, 2009, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unkl Ian

Have you priced out 6"+ billet Aluminum lately ?
Add in the studs, machine time, the numbers go up quick.

no its been a while since i have priced any metal in a while, i get most of my stuff at the scrap yard (its amazing what some people throw away) i also do metal casting as well, i mostly do aluminum, i have done 1 iron cast melt just to see if i could get my furnace hot enough, a few brass castings as well

i started making a dividing head a few weeks ago so i could make a few gears for my lathe, im missing 3 and need to turn one of the threads, so im gonna make the 3 i need
anyhow here is a picture of the dividing head, which happens to be a 60/1 gearbox, that bolts to the table either way by a cast aluminum bracket and machined square and parallel to the spindle, i still need to make the index plates and pin for it, then bolt down and use it

i will start another thread about it one day when its finished, i will post pictures of it from start to finish, ill put in its proper place and not hijack anymore

c1run1 · September 18th, 2009, 11:31 AM

Is this what you guys are taking about ?

66 Shorty · September 18th, 2009, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by c1run1

Is this what you guys are taking about ?

There ya go, that's what I'm talkin about!

metalmaster1766 · September 18th, 2009, 08:40 PM

it almost looks like both bolt circles are the same, but its tough to see a 1/4 inch difference in diameters from a picture

those would be very easy to make

rostigbug · September 19th, 2009, 12:01 AM

Too bad about the wider track width.
Do those damn things have to be so thick?

c1run1 · September 19th, 2009, 05:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rostigbug

Too bad about the wider track width.
Do those damn things have to be so thick?

They are not as heavy or thick as they appear . The VW Drum has a cone witch it has to compensate for . As for the lip i can have it machined a bit . 1/4 is to much Meatal Master .
The next set i'll address this issue .

metalmaster1766 · September 19th, 2009, 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by c1run1

They are not as heavy or thick as they appear . The VW Drum has a cone witch it has to compensate for . As for the lip i can have it machined a bit . 1/4 is to much Meatal Master .
The next set i'll address this issue .

i was referring to the 2 different bolt circles, you have the counter bored holes to bolt onto the drums, then you have the stud holes which are to allow the use of the ford wire wheels, what bolt circle diameter are the ford wire wheels, and what is the bolt circle diameter of the counter bored holes?

i was just stating that a 1/4 inch difference in the 2 different bolt circle diameters is tough to see in a picture

an example - you have 5 holes equally spaced on a 4.75" diameter bolt circle, then you need to make the 2nd bolt circle 4.500" with 5 holes equally spaced, well i just stated that that 1/4 inch difference is tough to see from a picture,

those numbers i used dont mean crap about your adapters, i was just trying make a simple statement, thats all, if i were to post a picture of an adapter using those numbers it would be tough to see the difference, i hope you understand what i was getting at, no big deal, but like i said,

one day ill make a set of adapters, wide 5 VW to whatever a standard ford 5 lug

the 1st picture in this thread is a wide VW 5 to an early ford, i can see that difference very easy, the one in post #17 it is tough to see the difference

c1run1 · September 19th, 2009, 09:49 AM

I spoke to a local Machinist today and he felt adding a center sleave would fix the problem since the idea is to center the wheel with out any rocking so the wheel is true . So i dropped off the spacers and a wheel for him to tinker with . Along with photos lets see what he comes up with .

rostigbug · September 19th, 2009, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rostigbug

Too bad about the wider track width.?

C1Run1...how much do they add width (widen) the track (width)
Do they make the front end lots wider. Do those 35 wires have a shitload of negative offset & the adaptores compensate for that?
Sorry i failed sentence composition-10th grade drop out

UT-X · September 19th, 2009, 11:06 AM

OK, I'm going to be really thick headed here so bear with me.

Are we talking about a sleeve to slide inside the hole in the center of the wheel (the blue area) or a sleeve that makes the dimples on the back side of the lug holes flush (the yellow)?

I just spoke with Lenny & he said you wouldn't want the dimples flush because they help keep the lugs tight.

Apologies, I'm admittedly not the sharpest tool in the shed at times (day times, night times,...)