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Old April 23rd, 2003, 06:49 AM   #1
lilbill
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has anybody painted a car with blitz black? what kind of primer does it take? what do you thin it with? is it weatherproof or does it need a topcoat ? i priced satin black at the paint store and it was $123 a gallon, found some blitz black at a john deere place (part# ty6416) for $22.00 a gallon.
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Old April 23rd, 2003, 07:25 AM   #2
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bil - i asked the "deere guys" and there is a recomended primer that they sell....kinda yellow oxide. label says for over bare metal, but their paint guy said fine to go over scuffed up old paint (solid base obviously....but i'd test it before to play it safe) . no topcoat necessary, and like i said before....if it is strong enough for a freekin' tractor....it ought to be good enough for us!
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Old April 23rd, 2003, 08:33 AM   #3
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lilbill,

I just got the primer for it at the same time from the dealer. I didn't even look to see what it's called but I can look tonight if you need me to.

I was told it's a sealed paint and wouldn't need a top coat. I'll be painting my rail buggy with it in the next day or two. I'll let ya know how it turns out with the john deere primer.


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Old April 23rd, 2003, 09:03 AM   #4
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Here's some info on the paint....
http://jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/document...tedProducts.htm

thanks for the link Unkl Ian
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Old April 23rd, 2003, 09:22 AM   #5
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good link Bousdula....and the primer is a rust inhibitor as well....cool!
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Old April 23rd, 2003, 10:28 AM   #6
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There's been some talk here and on the HAMB about Blitz Black.From what
I have heard its cheap,flat black and fairly easy to apply.

The one negative thing I've heard is that another type of paint won't stick
to the Blitz Black.

I was going to use this on my car,but I may want to paint or write something on the side of the car. Like a name or picture. If its not going to
stick I'll use something else.

Anyone here have any thoughts about this ? Has anyone painted over
Blitz Black with some other kind of paint ? Results ?
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Old April 23rd, 2003, 10:38 AM   #7
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wank - i have heard that as well, so if you plan to paint over it in the future, you eiter strip it off, or i thought you could apply some kinda barrier coat between....anyone hear about that? [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/confused.gif[/img]
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Old April 23rd, 2003, 07:07 PM   #8
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i read that whole product page and i'm still in the dark. what is this stuff? enamel? low voc paint? does it have to have john deere primer and thinner? why can't you paint over it? if you can't paint over it how would you do flames or pinstripeing?
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Old April 23rd, 2003, 07:21 PM   #9
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>? if you can't paint over it how would you do flames or pinstripeing? [/b][/quote] 1-Shot will go over almost anything,so pinstripes are not a problem;no more than any other flat paint.I'm guessing the good solvents in the good paint will cause the Blitz Black to wrinkle and lift,maybe.
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Old April 23rd, 2003, 07:47 PM   #10
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I haven't been painting too long myself, but I think you can just buy any type of black paint from the local paint shop and add a flatner to it. I've seen it done to other colors and it looked great
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Old April 24th, 2003, 03:13 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by ShutupandDrive@Apr 23 2003, 07:47 PM
I haven't been painting too long myself, but I think you can just buy any type of black paint from the local paint shop and add a flatner to it. I've seen it done to other colors and it looked great
yep, you can add a flattening agent to just about any color but you run into consistancy problems with any custom mixed paint. in other words it would be hard to mix up two different gallons of a flattened paint and have them both turn out the same. plus regular auto paint is getting damned expensive. over $100 a gallon for most of it. some paints are $500-$1000 a gallon and up for the really trick stuff. i'm interested in the blitz black for a couple of reasons. #1, it's cheap ($22) a gallon),#2 it's the right color straight out of the can.
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Old April 24th, 2003, 03:46 AM   #12
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if you need to flame or do any special effects, just use any other deere color. bet they have yellow and red. I'm sure their paint is compatible with itself, and pinstripe with 1shot, like unk said. It is an enamel and yes i would use their thinner (reducer or whatever you want to call it) and i'm gonna be safe and use their primer as well. The low VOC is an environmental thing...makes it safe to eat (JUST KIDDING). If price it the main issue.....i dont see how you can go wrong. Should be able to paint the whole car for about a hundred bucks....Earl Shieb wont even do that anymore [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img]
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Old April 24th, 2003, 08:20 AM   #13
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cheap is the operative word here. i'm trying to do a quick and dirty rebuild of the lowered 69 squareback i just picked up. i've got too many other projects going that are more important and suck up ALL my spare change. the square is getting a cheap black paint job, rattle can flames (jd paint comes in rattle cans too), mexican blanket interior (bench seat of course, btw mexican blankets on ebay are CHEAP), filled in side windows (cheaper than window gaskets), red painted stock wheels, painted on whitewalls, various custom accessories out of my "junk" box......you get the idea. it won't be a true "rat" because i'm too much of a perfectionest. more of a low buck custom. i'll probably paint my shop name on the side and use it for a lite duty shop truck.
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Old July 5th, 2003, 04:34 AM   #14
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Hey All,
I know this is an old thread...but,I was doing a search on Blitz black (I already have a gallon :) ) Has anyone used an epoxy primer with it? Any primer besides JD's?
Thanks,
Joe
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Old July 5th, 2003, 07:41 AM   #15
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is the blitz black paint and the high temp muffler paint the same thing?
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Old July 5th, 2003, 11:41 AM   #16
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no
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Old July 5th, 2003, 01:05 PM   #17
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Ok, just some FYI I got when i went & talked to the guys at the local JD shop. Blitz black is formulated to act like an epoxy paint w/o the hassle & the price. It was made specificly for frames & drive components to be durable & easy to clean. Hence why most things including paint dont stick to it. Kinda like teflon in a can I guess.
There are a couple truck shops (Kenworth & Peterbuilt) here that use it on the frames of thier new trucks as well as rebuilds. General consensus is there's nothin better out there for the price.
Told the guy what I was usin it for & he thought I was on crack. lol But when we talked about it he agreed it's perfect for the application. I'll have to ask but I beleive they also make a gloss black that is compatible with Blitz black, would make for a sweet ghost flame job. :D
 
Old July 5th, 2003, 03:21 PM   #18
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sounds like it would be a good paint for pans and chassis parts [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumbsup.gif[/img]
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Old July 5th, 2003, 06:59 PM   #19
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Do a test, any of you out there that have some.
Just spray a scrap part and use a few different types of paint.
Try 1-shot and Krylon and aything else that comes to mind.
Also try just a simple scuff, a full sanded section and a sanded and primed section. Etching prime might help, might not.
Also maybe some of those epoxy paints that you can buy from Home Depot.

One other thought I had was DTM, it's a Alkalyd paint made buy Benjamin Moore. DTM stands for direct to metal. It bonds really well to everything I have ever painted with it. It's also very durable. We painted the 45 foot Fibreglass T-Rex and we had to drag it on its belly across concrete for a few hundred feet to get it inside this door to install it. Its was hardly even scratched.
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Old July 7th, 2003, 06:04 AM   #20
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HI ALL,


Just a qick update.
I went back to the JD dealership and picked up there Medium-gloss black and some buff primer this long weekend, to try a few things.
I finished painting my rail with Med-gloss black over self etching primer (from napa). It shot nice and looked great.
I also shot some of the blitz black over the same self etching primer AND some over JD's buff colored primer.
I used JD's thinner for both paints, and clean up.
The only problem I could see would be not giving it it's full drying time before painting over it. the paint takes like 36 hrs and the primer is 48hrs.
If you paint over it before it is fully set or try to lay it down to thick to fast it will wrinkle up on you. just take your time and let it cure before trying flames or what ever.

There isn't much of a diffrence between the blitz black and the semi gloss. JD makes the Biltz black for the interior of the tractor cabs to reduct the glare inside. the Semi gloss is used for the chassis and running gear. Both seem easy to shoot (thinned 10-1). cover well, and best of all cheap!

All of it turned out ok.

Mike
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Old July 8th, 2003, 05:20 AM   #21
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any guesses about shooting blitz on fiberglass???
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Old May 12th, 2004, 11:26 AM   #22
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this thread hasnt been added to in quite a while and i found some additional info on a street rodding forum that may help. this is 3 different posts cut and pasted......some good info here.






Below is the most exact information I have found for you guys doing the flat/satin black.

From: Valspar Paint General Manager. (They make Blitz Black for John Deere.)

#1. If the existing paint is relatively good condition (ie. no peeling paint, no large amount of rust, etc) no primer is needed. Scuff sand the existing paint with extra fine grit sandpaper, wipe surface with a clean cloth and then apply John Deere Blitz Black.

#2. If primer is used due to bare metal or minor surface defects, we suggest the John Deere Buff Primer (available in aerosols, quarts and gallons). This is a very “user friendly” formulation that provides good sandability, excellent filling/sealing properties and enhanced corrosion resistance.

#3. A reducer is needed for optimum sprayability and appearance. We suggest the use of the John Deere thinner/reducer (available in quarts gallon and fives). It is formulated specifically for John Deere paints. The mix ratio is 8 parts John Deere paint : 1 part John Deere thinner.

#4. John Deere Blitz Black is an “air dry” formulation...but if a you want the paint to dry faster and harder, John Deere has a hardener in their product line. It is available in pints, part number REN3001. The mix ratio is 8 parts John Deere paint : 1 part REN3001 hardener : 1 part John Deere thinner.

Some more info...the exact same formulation is used in the aerosols as in the quarts/gallons. This helps with touch-ups and is critical in low gloss applications such as the Blitz Black.




!!!!!!! IMPORTANT !!!!!!!
John Deere Blitz Black cureing windows.

Shooting to a good surface IE: Bare metal, John Deere Primer, or to a good base of existing paint scuffed up.

1 light tack coat and wait no longer than 15 minutes to shoot the full wet coat.
For a second coat which is NOT needed but why the hell not.
Wait up to but NO longer than 3 hours to apply second coat.
But if you go past 3 hours DO NOT shoot another coat because the paint will react and go to $#!T. Wait 36 hours until you shoot the next coat. For each coat the same times apply. But one good coat with the 8 to 1 to 1 (8-1-1 paint-thinner-hardener) will be more than enough.







Due to a new label project at John Deere, the new part number for Blitz Black is TY-25669 (this replaces TY-6416).
THE FORMULA HAS NOT CHANGED!!!!!! SAME DURABILITY, SAME COLOR, SAME GLOSS LEVEL, ETC...
I have a color card that includes some technical information that may be helpful to you. Let me know if you want me to send you a copy.
The REN3001 hardener will work very well with Blitz Black. Mix ratios are 8 parts paint to 1 part REN3001 hardener to 1 part thinner. This combination will make the paint film cure faster to a hard finish.
A gallon will cover a easily cover a small car.
My recommendation for thinning is to start with an 8 parts paint to 1 part thinner—some guys like to spray the product thin...some like to spray it thick. Spray one tack coat followed by one maybe two full wet coats for the best results.
Let me know if you need more info.

Shawn Mahady
General Manager
Aftermarket Specialties Division
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Old May 12th, 2004, 06:49 PM   #23
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some good info dan [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/thumbsup.gif[/img] and lets not forget pete did his in blitz..... just search his name pistolpete and you will come up with a ton
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Old May 12th, 2004, 08:46 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by lilbill@Apr 24 2003, 08:20 AM
low buck custom. i'll probably paint my shop name on the side and use it for a lite duty shop truck.
thats a good name....maybe for a band
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Old February 5th, 2005, 05:35 PM   #25
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Found more info, posting it here for future reference.
---------------------------

From Valspar Paint, Makers of John Deere Blitz Black

#1. If the existing paint is relatively good condition (ie. no peeling paint, no large amount of rust, etc) no primer is needed. Scuff sand the existing paint with extra fine grit sandpaper, wipe surface with a clean cloth and then apply John Deere Blitz Black.

#2. If primer is used due to bare metal or minor surface defects, we suggest the John Deere Buff Primer (available in aerosols, quarts and gallons). This is a very "user friendly" formulation that provides good sandability, excellent filling/sealing properties and enhanced corrosion resistance.

#3. A reducer is needed for optimum sprayability and appearance. We suggest the use of the John Deere thinner/reducer (available in quarts gallon and fives). It is formulated specifically for John Deere paints. The mix ratio is 8 parts John Deere paint : 1 part John Deere thinner.

#4. John Deere Blitz Black is an "air dry" formulation...but if you want the paint to dry faster and harder, John Deere has a hardener in their product line. It is available in pints. The mix ratio is 8-1-1. 8 parts John Deere paint (TY25669 or TY6416) to 1 part hardener (REN3001) to 1 part John Deere thinner (PT158).

Some more info...the exact same formulation is used in the aerosols as in the quarts/gallons. This helps with touch-ups and is critical in low gloss applications such as the Blitz Black.
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