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Old July 28th, 2004, 07:19 PM   #26
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You could run a 6 point cage but how would that look on, let's say a Heb-style roadster or on Cliff's Hi-Boy. If you want a smooth roadster stype body then you need vert rails...

Oh yeah, bamboo and leaves for you..
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Old September 10th, 2004, 11:49 AM   #27
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if you look at the roll hoop in my pink notch speedster, you can see that you would be able to just run it as a cross brace instead of the big hoop and it wouldn't be noticeable above the belt line...
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Old October 16th, 2004, 02:31 AM   #28
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this was great info, since im working on a topless project. i do not want to remove the body off my frame, since i have no freaken idea how. now, what if i just weld in some 1"x1" steel tubes inside the cabin and run a thick brace along side the center frame, will that be enough?

you can see my work and damaged here>>>
http://67type3.netfirms.com/topless.htm
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Old October 16th, 2004, 02:53 AM   #29
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I basically made my rails as the pre67 link shows. I used 2 mm metalthickness though.

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Old October 16th, 2004, 04:32 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by 67type3@Oct 16 2004, 06:31 AM
i do not want to remove the body off my frame, since i have no freaken idea how.
It should be just a series of bolts that runs arcoss the bottom of your heating channels. Look under your car near the edge, you should see the bolts there.

You probably could get a way just putting support on angles inside your car (like a roll cage of sorts) but just not as clean looking.
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Old October 16th, 2004, 06:50 PM   #31
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The support boxes on the convertable would keep the bug from having door fitting issues. you can slip them in after unbolting the bolts to the pan. There are several great websites to be found that tell you where the bolts are. Use your search engine and search for heater channel replacement. the boxes run along side of the heater channels. You wont need any overhead bracing but it wouldnt hurt to add some of that convertable bracing shown in earlier posts.
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Old October 16th, 2004, 08:12 PM   #32
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I started renforcing the body on mine to hack the roof off of it, 1x2 square tubbing .120 wall thickness , welded the tubbing to the tunnel just below the rear seat to the side of the body, then welding braces off of those to the front of the car welding them to the post the door hinges bolt to and also welding to the floor
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Old October 18th, 2004, 01:54 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nick+Oct 16 2004, 04:32 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Nick @ Oct 16 2004, 04:32 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-67type3@Oct 16 2004, 06:31 AM
i do not want to remove the body off my frame, since i have no freaken idea how.
It should be just a series of bolts that runs arcoss the bottom of your heating channels. Look under your car near the edge, you should see the bolts there.

You probably could get a way just putting support on angles inside your car (like a roll cage of sorts) but just not as clean looking.
<div align="right">Quoted post</div>
[/b][/quote]

i plan to use excessive amounts of fiberglass over the welds to have a seemless look. i already started on the dash and the doors. i have heard from a few people that using fiberglass over the welds should make it very stiff.
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Old June 25th, 2005, 08:11 PM   #34
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Alright so I'm done with the Slamit (not slammed like I wanted it but got a little scared after driving in a friends oval and we were taking out road reflectors and then BAM! we jumped a foot into the air and smashed the nose....) so now I'm on the road down to southern Oregon in a few weeks to pick up a bug for 200$ for my Convertable Roadster project. Now for my questions:

Will support be neccesary should I choose to Weld the Doors shut? I'm going Dukes of Hazzard style on those doors all the way. I noticed this question wasn't asked earlier in the post and thought it would be a good question to ask. I plan to Weld the door shut and have a bench seat in the front and in the back so I wish to retain the back seat. Is a cage neccesary under these circumstances, or will it just make it easier to make a less noticable support?

Thanks

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Old June 25th, 2005, 08:22 PM   #35
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you should do just fine with just putting 2 or 3 big bolts throught the door jambs at the front and back of the doors, then weld up the outer skins and what not. just don't depend on ONLY the outer skin for support. deffinitely bolt some stuff together woth heavy grade 8 hardware and fender washers.

but yeah you should have like ZERO body flex with that rig:)

good luck!
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Old June 25th, 2005, 08:25 PM   #36
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Body flex will only effect opening/closing the doors correctly. If you don't plan using doors then you shouldn't worry about body flexing too much unless it's being raced.
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Old September 13th, 2005, 07:09 PM   #37
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1 i'm doing another topless soon too i cant figure out how to brace it from front to back and not see it. it will be the first one i will be using the doors on

1a can i run it through the heater channels? i didnt get the diagram that was posted. confused?

2 on the doors welded shut thing . IT WORKS AWSOME. and no problems with speed or flex either. the way i did mine befor was to just weld shut the front and back of the door to the body, in the gap at the top where the window used to come out i welded a peice of square tube in from front to back. jamb to jamb. then i filled the holes and did the body work on em. i used a ton of bondo and drove it like i stole it. it would get pretty wild and sideways drifting. no problems with bondo cracks or anything.
 
Old September 14th, 2005, 04:15 AM   #38
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convertable reinforcement rails.or weld square tubing undeneith or put it in the interior and build a false floor and then mount the seats to that.
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Old September 18th, 2005, 06:45 PM   #39
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Or just weld the damned things shut and hop in and out. I've got long legs I can just step over the door.


OK I'm not done welding yet but you get the idea
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Old September 18th, 2005, 10:05 PM   #40
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[quote=ducktape,Sep 13 2005, 10:09 PM]
1 i'm doing another topless soon too i cant figure out how to brace it from front to back and not see it. it will be the first one i will be using the doors on

You can use 2 inch channel, to strengthen it. Run the channel underneith, along the edge of the body bolts. It has to be cut to fit the conture, of the floorpan along the bolts. Weld that up, and your ready to install it. It welds to the rear torsion, and the front of the tunnel.

I have used this idea on fiberglass dune buggys, for several years. With the extra bracing, the bodies never stress crack. It re-inforces the floorpan, and stops body twist.
Hope that is as clear as mud!

My 2 cents
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Old September 19th, 2005, 02:41 AM   #41
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i just finished my boxed from from the inside. 1" squeare tubing all around. bolted to the pan. added additional cross brassing in the form of a triangle on each pan. will add false floor ontop of brassing and attache seat to brassing. i actually cut off my roof this weekend, too.
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Old September 19th, 2005, 03:20 AM   #42
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Sounds good keep up the good work.
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Old September 19th, 2005, 08:20 AM   #43
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[quote=dt113,Sep 18 2005, 10:05 PM]
Quote:
Originally Posted by ducktape,Sep 13 2005, 10:09 PM
. . . You can use 2 inch channel, to strengthen it. Run the channel underneith, along the edge of the body bolts. It has to be cut to fit the conture, of the floorpan along the bolts. Weld that up, and your ready to install it. It welds to the rear torsion, and the front of the tunnel. . . .
Your plan sounds like a heavier duty version of how I'll be tying the new front end to my VW floorpan. In my case, though, I'll be relying only on bolts with backing plates for the underframe-to-pan connection (no welding to the rear torsion or to the front of the tunnel). Also, I'll be using 1.5" square tubing (1/8" wall) rather than 2" channel for an extra half inch of ground clearance.

bottom view of reinforcing subframe
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Old September 19th, 2005, 07:59 PM   #44
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[quote=dt113,Sep 19 2005, 01:05 AM]
Quote:
Originally Posted by ducktape,Sep 13 2005, 10:09 PM
1 i'm doing another topless soon too i cant figure out how to brace it from front to back and not see it. it will be the first one i will be using the doors on

You can use 2 inch channel, to strengthen it. Run the channel underneith, along the edge of the body bolts. It has to be cut to fit the conture, of the floorpan along the bolts. Weld that up, and your ready to install it. It welds to the rear torsion, and the front of the tunnel.

I have used this idea on fiberglass dune buggys, for several years. With the extra bracing, the bodies never stress crack. It re-inforces the floorpan, and stops body twist.
Hope that is as clear as mud!

My 2 cents
thank you.
 
Old September 19th, 2005, 08:09 PM   #45
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how do u print the cabrio rail off pre67vw site so u can read the messurements?
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Old September 20th, 2005, 12:47 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally posted by 68flatblackbug@Sep 20 2005, 06:09 AM
how do u print the cabrio rail off pre67vw site so u can read the messurements?
You open the .pdf file below:
Pre67 cabrio rails.

And simply print them out...

I used these plans too for my Hebster but 2mm thick sheetmetal for my rails instead of 1,5mm shown in the plans.
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Old September 20th, 2005, 04:54 AM   #47
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i printed them but the print is so tiny i cant read it
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