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Old October 9th, 2014, 10:57 AM   #1
roudyb
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Post 70 VRod
Re:: Door Top Clearance   

Alright ladies and germs. I need some advice regarding the door tops. As I am in the Emerald Isle the steering wheel is on the right side (starboard) so my references are as such.

Okay, the passenger side went on quite effortless and no hassle. The driver side really did do my head in and I still don't know why.

So here is my predicament. Is the Driver Side to tight to the roof (sorry for the bad angle, I'll get a better pic tomorrow)? Or is the Passenger Side clearance right? Neither door rubs and closes fine but when the seal is put back on will there be issues...

Is there a standard clearance to go by?





The party line is now open for great wisdom and advice.

Last edited by roudyb; October 9th, 2014 at 12:47 PM.
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Old October 9th, 2014, 08:46 PM   #2
V8Transporter
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Default Re: 70 VRod

Sorry, you're way beyond my rather pathetic abilities in sheetmetal work. I love the 3-D-like PASSENGER & DRIVER... lettering.
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Old October 9th, 2014, 11:18 PM   #3
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I'd take the measurements of the gap around the non chopped bits and average them out. then check to see if the door size is within the averages on the chopped bits. Do this for both doors. Also I'd check to see if the pillars are 90 degree straight. Measure and find out where things got off. Worse case you cut and reweld doors to the tolerances of the measurements sounds boring I know but it's best to learn you fucked up now and not when the car is in paint!




Edit: also measure the door frame area thingy. Jam? On the chopped bits then compare to the other side.
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Old October 10th, 2014, 09:35 AM   #4
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Default Re: 70 VRod

So... the back edge of the window frames line up with the B-pillars?
The door gap at the top edges of the door pillars match all the way down the door line?
The door tops do not hit the roof?
You have slipped an old door seal in the channel and the doors shut?

If yes to all the above, you are done. Good job.

Tolerances? If you can slip a stack of coins in the gap between the door and the quarter panel of the B-pillars and that same stack width is the same at the top edge of your doors, I'd say good enough.
Looking at it, the top edge of your door frame looks really tight to your b-pillar?

Last edited by markh; October 10th, 2014 at 09:38 AM.
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Old October 10th, 2014, 11:04 PM   #5
roudyb
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Post Re: 70 VRod

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Originally Posted by V8Transporter View Post
Sorry, you're way beyond my rather pathetic abilities in sheetmetal work. I love the 3-D-like PASSENGER & DRIVER... lettering.
I have over extended my abilities with this project.
If I screw it up I can fix it in Photoshop


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Originally Posted by DrHax View Post
I'd take the measurements of the gap around the non chopped bits and average them out. then check to see if the door size is within the averages on the chopped bits. Do this for both doors. Also I'd check to see if the pillars are 90 degree straight. Measure and find out where things got off. Worse case you cut and reweld doors to the tolerances of the measurements sounds boring I know but it's best to learn you fucked up now and not when the car is in paint!

Edit: also measure the door frame area thingy. Jam? On the chopped bits then compare to the other side.
I see what you are saying. At the time I was rushing it and now that I'm not frustrated with it I will calmly measure again and get symmetry with the two doors. Cheers.
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Old October 10th, 2014, 11:20 PM   #6
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Post Re: 70 VRod

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Originally Posted by markh View Post
So... the back edge of the window frames line up with the B-pillars?
The door gap at the top edges of the door pillars match all the way down the door line?
The door tops do not hit the roof?
You have slipped an old door seal in the channel and the doors shut?

If yes to all the above, you are done. Good job.

Tolerances? If you can slip a stack of coins in the gap between the door and the quarter panel of the B-pillars and that same stack width is the same at the top edge of your doors, I'd say good enough.
Looking at it, the top edge of your door frame looks really tight to your b-pillar?
I like your suggestion of using the door seal. That came to mind at the time but then I was distracted and I continued to curse every door in the shop. Ha!

Using the "stack of coins" as a guide is interesting. So, should the gap at the top of the door be the same as the gap from door to the b-pillar? That's where I'm unsure.

I know I'll have to go back in, cut and re-weld to make the two doors symmetrical. I guess if I stay within the tolerance of the door to b-pillar and insert the door seal that will do the trick.

And that pic of the passenger side is pretty bad. It does look too tight but that's the one thing I did get right on both sides, equal spacing. I'll get better pics of each side.

Cheers for the advice.
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Old October 10th, 2014, 11:28 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by roudyb View Post
I like your suggestion of using the door seal. That came to mind at the time but then I was distracted and I continued to curse every door in the shop. Ha!

Using the "stack of coins" as a guide is interesting. So, should the gap at the top of the door be the same as the gap from door to the b-pillar? That's where I'm unsure.

I know I'll have to go back in, cut and re-weld to make the two doors symmetrical. I guess if I stay within the tolerance of the door to b-pillar and insert the door seal that will do the trick.

And that pic of the passenger side is pretty bad. It does look too tight but that's the one thing I did get right on both sides, equal spacing. I'll get better pics of each side.

Cheers for the advice.
If you're curious about door gaps find a beetle at a junk yard or more then one! (sample size is goo for this type of deal ) The measure them.. or if you have a friend with a bug invite them over distract them with a shiny object and measure their bug while they're not looking so you don't have to explain why you're measuring their doors.
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Old October 10th, 2014, 11:40 PM   #8
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Post Re: 70 VRod

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Originally Posted by DrHax View Post
If you're curious about door gaps find a beetle at a junk yard or more then one! (sample size is goo for this type of deal ) The measure them.. or if you have a friend with a bug invite them over distract them with a shiny object and measure their bug while they're not looking so you don't have to explain why you're measuring their doors.
I'm with ya' on that. I actually went out and checked out my '67 for reference. But at the time I was rushing it and was over thinking it.

I'll go in today calm and collected and fix the
lil buggers

Last edited by roudyb; October 11th, 2014 at 02:23 AM.
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Old October 29th, 2014, 07:29 AM   #9
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Default Re: 70 VRod

Quote:
Originally Posted by roudyb View Post
I see what you are saying.
I always get a laugh at that phrase, please don't take it personal, I worked with a guy who said that before everything, no matter what it was
I'd tell him if he used sign language, or wrote it on paper, I'd be able to see what your was saying

As far as door spacing, it was back in the 80's or 90's Hot VW, or VW Trend magazine, they were replacing floor pans & heater channels, I think they used 1/8" or 3/16" thick steel pieces & tac welded them between the door gaps at the A-pillars, B-pillars & the tops to keep them properly spaced when cutting everything out
I'd offer to look for that magazine, but I have at least 8 to 10 years of magazines


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