jaransonT3 from MI - Cut-Weld-Drive Forums

**jaransonT3** · January 22nd, 2005, 06:55 PM

Hello Everyone.

I've been lurking around the Volksrod site for a few weeks and really like what I see.

First, a little about me. I have been into VW since I learned to drive when I was 12. So I guess that makes it 28 years or so. First VW was a shortened pan buggy the my brothers and I used as a go-kart. Just a floorpan, a loop roll bar and a simple loop to support the steering column. No doors, no windshield, no seatbelts...that thing was a blast.

I am in SE Michigan and am a Research Engineer with Ford Motor Company. I have a B.S. in aeronautical engineering and M.E. in Structural Composites. I am a self taught artist and love to draw cars and car toons.

My current driver is a 66 Type 3 Squareback (Sophy). I finished a major redo of her this past fall. VW Blue paint with sunset pearl ghost flames tipped in silver. American Racing Aero wheels, 16x7 with 205/55R16 in the rear and 15x7 with 195/55R15 in the front. Lowered one notch up front with 35 years of sag in the rear. Electric ragtop sunroof installed. Leather Mustang seats. You can check her out here:

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jarans...hyRebuild.html

You can also check out more about me and my cars on my website here:

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jaransonT3/jaransonT3/

And the reason for lurking around and finally signing up.....I have a 70 Vert Beetle at my parents place in northern Minnesota that is just ripe for being rodded. I have already used the fenders for other projects and even chopped the windshield frame a bunch of years ago. I just need to talk my brother into towing it out here for me the next time he comes for a visit. I have jsut completed a rendering of what I want to do to the 'Vert. You can check it out here:

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jaransonT3/RatRod.jpg

The basic plan:

1. Keep the wheel base stock, but cut 9-10 inches out of the body and pan behind the door opening and shorten everything, then add the section of tunnel removed during shortening in between the frame head and the front bulkhead with an offset to get the nose low. This will push the front wheels out front and let me keep the relative position of the seat and the pedals and shifter constant.

2. Keep the chop window frame and get glass cut to fit. Frameless on the top edge.

3. Fab a Heb-like rear deck, but keep it lower profile by using the 1600 dual carb pancake motor from my 66 Square. (She is getting a new 2.0L motor this winter)

4. Fab a single center gage dash and keep the interior really simple in red vinyl.

5. Weld the doors shut and close up the tops of the doors and the body.

6. Dark charcoal paint. Big and Little American Torq-Thrust wheels.

Glad to be here. Let me know what you all think.

Later,
John Jaranson
'66 Square (Sophy)
'71 Fasty (Jane - darkside project in waiting)
various parts.....don't we all.
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jaransonT3/jaransonT3/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jaransonT3/2004Invasion/
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jaransonT3/notavwclub/

**jaransonT3** · January 31st, 2005, 07:47 PM

I did a proportion study to see if I really like the idea of keeping the wheelbase stock and shortening the body and pan behind the b-pillar and the adding the same length back into the tunnel between the frame head and the firewall to push the front wheels forward.

I have posted a couple of pictures in the new Gallery of the illustration. This link is to the color one, but you can look at the original pen drawing n my gallery too.

http://volksrods.com/forums/index.php?act=...y&cmd=si&img=55

I really like the proportions. They work for me.

I am not sure of the paint scheme yet. I am going to play around with some different colors and some flames and such.

**jaransonT3** · March 21st, 2005, 02:34 PM

Had some good news over the weekend....I have another late model Fastback to use in building my Type 3 Volksrod.

[attachmentid=4078]

A friend is parting out a 70 Fastback from AZ, and I am getting the pan, body shell and title for hleping with the parting out and doing a little body work on his other 70 Fastback. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/Dancing.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/Dancing.gif[/img]

Looks like my Fastback will become the donor for this body and pan since it is in so much better condition rust-wise than mine.

Soon as the weather warms up and I get the engine and trans back in my Squareback, I will be breaking out the sawzall and starting the conversion of my fastback into a lead sled VolksRod.

**jaransonT3** · April 4th, 2005, 08:24 PM

Picked up the new 70 Fastback body, pan and suspension that will become my Type 3 VolksRod. This 70 is in much better shape rust-wise than my current 71 Fastback. The 70 will be the basis for the VolksRod with additional sheetmetal for the chop and recontouring of the roof coming from the 71.

It is not perfect, but will do nicely for the VolksRod project.

Here are a few pictures....

As soon as I get my 66 Squareback put back together and on the road, I will be starting this project in earnest. Stay tuned...

**jaransonT3** · April 29th, 2005, 11:11 AM

1slo3 asked me to let you all know a little bit more about me and my career so here goes.....

I am married, but separated, and the father of three great kids. I was born in 1964 (you do the math). I have a Bachelor's degree in Aeronautical Engineering and a Master's in Mechanical Engineering from Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute. I have worked in the aerospace industry and currently in the automotive industry for Ford Motor Company. My specialties are structural design using advanced, lightweight materials and concpetual design. I am currently in the Vehicle Design Department in Ford's Scientific Research Laboratory doing conceptual design work for advanced automotive interiors. Still can't believe they are paying me to draw and be creative.

I recently finished working on the design, development, and launch of the 2005 Ford GT supercar. What an awesome experience and an awesome car! Just way too much fun to drive something with 550 hp and 500 ft-lbs of torque.....easy to drive fast and hard, but can get away from you pretty quick when it does. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img] I was responsible for build the first full scale engineering mock-up of the car and for the early prototype builds.

I also have worked on the other end of the spectrum...a "people's car" for developing countries. More like 35 hp. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img] , but super low cost.

I am a self-taught artist and do mostly automotive art in pen, marker, and colored pencil. I also do some computer art stuff.

I have been an aircooled VW fan since I learned to drive my Dad's Baja beetle when I was twelve. He gave my younger brothers and me a floor pan Dune Buggy that summer and we drove the wheels off it for two summers, sometimes literally. Since, I have owned various VW from a really sweet custom 75 Super Beetle to a $50 beater 72 Super in college. I currently drive a tricked out, ghost-flamed, 66 Squareback during non-salt season. I have 70 and 71 Fastybacks that will become a Type 3 Lead Sled rod and a 70 Vert that I want to rod one of these days.

....well, there is a little bit more about me and what I do.

**jaransonT3** · May 26th, 2005, 07:25 PM

Now that my 66 Squareback is back on the road and "finished" for now, I rolled my old Fastback into the garage and have started to do some mock-up work on the Type 3 Lead Sled project. This 71 Fasty will provide the parts and pieces for the orange 70 Fasty that will ultimately become the Lead Sled. As you might be able to see it is suffering from terminal rust.

So here are a few pics of the mock-up work I did tonight.

New headlight bucket shape

New rear fender opening shape. This will have to be tweaked some more since it hits the tire. I think i will have to lower the rear first and then see where I am at.

You can start to see the new shape of the roof line in this shot. Chopped and shortened. Will be pillar-less.

Another shot of the roof line change

Couple more shots of the headlight bucket change.

Overall shot. Little hard to make out the roofline change in this one.

As soon as I can sell the 2000 Ford Focus in my driveway, I will bring the orange Fastback home and get out the sawzall. In the meantime, I will be starting the headlight bucket changes, shaving the bump on the hood for the emblem and maybe even cutting the top frame off the doors and capping them.

**jaransonT3** · June 3rd, 2005, 08:26 PM

Started on the Lead Sled Type 3 this evening. Actually cut and welded some sheetmetal. I don't have the body shell back here yet, so I started working on the new headlight shape.

What do you all think?

This is what I am starting with. Pretty straight fender. Will be filling the turn signal hole, the gas filler door, and the bumper divot.

Some simple wireframe to help define the shape and give the sheetmetal a bit more defined edge.

Another view of the wireframe with the fender on the car.

Got some sheetmetal cut to rough shape and tacked on. Ran out of time to be noisy before getting any further.

View with the hood in it to get an idea of the new shape. I will be shaving the bump for the hood roundel too.

Will try to get it a bit further along tomorrow and I need to figure out how to duplicate it on the other side. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/blink.gif[/img]

**jaransonT3** · July 3rd, 2005, 06:40 AM

OK, I have been busy chopping and welding away on the Lead Sled. What do you think?

[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img] Just kidding....I wish I was that far along. All Photoshop!

But it is pretty close to what I want to do with the car. I have a couple of ideas I would welcome feedback on. The first involves moving the body crease in the door and rear fender. Like this...

What do you all think? And how would you do it?

The second idea involves changing the proportions of the car some. I was out marking the car up and came up with this idea....

Basically I want to move the windshield forward to shorten the hood a little and lengthen the future rear deck. This idea is included in the PhotoShop concepts above. My idea is to trim the windshield frame and the upper cowl sheetmetal to just behind the vents. Then re-weld this piece on forward 2.5" or so. This moves the windshield forward and eliminates the vents. I would leave the dash were it is and fill the gap created with new metal. The door frames will be eliminated and the tops of the doors welded up. Fair weather car only. I would have the top of the hinge post to fill, reinforce, and reshape, but without worrying about side glass, I don't see it as a problem.

Would you chop the top first and then move the cowl or the other way around? Just curious what you all think.

**jaransonT3** · July 3rd, 2005, 06:43 AM

Got some more done on the Lead Sled over the weekend. Just baby steps for now, but progress.

I welded in the patches for the gas filler door, the bumper divot, and the turn signal on the passenger side fender. Just have to weld in a patch panel on the inner reinforcement at the bottom rear edge of the fender and this one will be done for now. Sorry no fender peaks yet.

Then I tackled the hood emblem bump. I cut out the original bump, shaped and welded in a new piece to follow the contour of the hood. Then I formed a new section of curved hood peak and welded that to the new patch. I have a bit more welding to do to get it all filled in, but I like the way it looks.

**jaransonT3** · July 29th, 2005, 05:11 AM

Made some more progress over the last couple of days.

Got both doors just about fully welded smooth. Filled the door handle holes and recess and the window opening slot and capped off where I cut the frame off.

Also got the other front fender smoothed over by filling the turns signal hole and the recess for the bumper.

I also picked up my new favorite cutting tool at Harbor Freight last weekend......4" angle grinder and some cut-off wheels.

This is the slickest thing since slicing bread.....and for only $16....how can you go wrong?! Came with a 1 year warranty and a new set of brushes for the motor.

(We need a grinding smiley.

)

And this is my favorite picture from tonight's work......

...that is my 10 year old son Ethan laying down a few spot beads on the door handle fill panel! He did great for his first time and he really liked it. Very proud Poppa tonight.

Will have to have him put on a hat, some long pants and a long sleeve shirt next time.

**jaransonT3** · April 3rd, 2009, 05:19 PM

Got a little done on the new body for the Lead Sled tonight.

Here is a comparison shot of my 71 "Practice" car nextr to the new stock 70- Type 3 body.

Definitely have to lower the car and the roof. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/Sawzallsmiley.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/welderface.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/driving.gif[/img]

Here is Jane 2 all dressed in Jane 1's old fenders, hood, and dorrs/

**jaransonT3** · April 3rd, 2009, 05:20 PM

Getting everthing ready...

Started out by welding the doors shut to help keep the body stable.

Starting with the cowl/windshield frame relocation...

Here is the windshield frame removed...

and all cleaned up and ready for welding...

Tacked in place...

This shows the amount I have gained at the roof and how much I stood the windshield up.

This shows the amount I have gained at the dash. I will cut a filler panel for this space.

And finally a shot showing the amount I have to fill at the rear due to standing the windshield up a little.

Tomorrow, I plan to get the rest of the cowl welded up and then I will start the chop by taking 6 inches out of the windshield height. Might even get the rest of the roof off, if the weather cooperates.

Felt good to finally start on the chop.

**jaransonT3** · April 3rd, 2009, 05:22 PM

Cut the rest of the roof off and moved it into position...down and forward.

I decided to keep the whole rear window frame intact so that I can use the stock rear glass.

Here is the view of the rear window from the side. It should work out just perfect, since the rear body line will be at the top of the rear fender after reworking the rear of the car.

I also started on the A-pillars. Lots of pie cuts to get them to bend in to meet the narrower roof.

I didn't get to start welding anything up yet. Need to bend/fabricate up the tubular support structure for the rear of the roof and need to get the windshield header trimmed to fit at the roof and at the a-pillars. It is going to be a little tricky, but doesn't look too bad.

I did fiddle in PhotoShop a little bit tonight too. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

**jaransonT3** · April 3rd, 2009, 05:23 PM

Got a little bit done tonight. Not much, but I did enough [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/AssScratch.gif[/img] to figure out how to get the windshield header and roof to line back up. It was causing me some grief because I stood the whole windshield frame up some. I will have to do a little creative trimming of the windshield header and the roof to match, but it should work out just fine.

Here are the pics....

Windshield header frame clamped in place. I had to use the header from Jane 1 since I cut Jane 2s header to high up. Good to have a practice/parts car. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img] You can see where I prose to trim the header frame so the roof will line up.

It shows a littel better in this side shot.

And finally a little closer view of the A-pillar. I still need to tweak the pie cuts a little to get everything lined up just right.

I plan to add a reinforcement to the inside of the A-pillar in order to both strengthen it because of the cuts and to smooth out the contour since I no longer will have seals on door opening side. Planning on [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/welderface.gif[/img] tomorrow.

**jaransonT3** · April 3rd, 2009, 05:24 PM

I am usually pretty brave with this kind of stuff, but I am planning on laying the windshield in the frame when I have it all tacked together enough to hold its shape.

In theory, the opening is just smaller than the original in both height and a little in width at the top. Something like this....

The seal should allow a little bit of forgiveness and there is always the option to glue it in and then trim the edges. The windshield urethanes can handle lots of gap variation.

Lexan or similar is always an option since I could use the original windshield as a drape form. I think it will be OK. ( we need a "keeping fingers crossed" smiley. <G>)

**jaransonT3** · April 3rd, 2009, 05:25 PM

OK....got some more done today! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/Dancing.gif[/img]

Started out by fitting and tacking the windshield frame back together with about 6 inches removed. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/Dancing.gif[/img]

Then I checked the windshield fit. Looks like everything will work as in my drawing earlier.

After adding some more welding to the windshield frame to make it a bit more secure (I still need to complete the welding), I got busy fitting the roof back to the windshield frame. Got everything fit together pretty good.

Here is a close-up of the visor/overhang and A-pillar. I need to do a little more trimming and cleaning up of the leading edge. I also want to add some 3/16" or 1/4" round bar to the leading edge to give it a little more support and definition. Kind of like I did on the headlight visors.

Didn't get anything welded on the roof yet. Need to get some tubing to make the rear roof supports before I weld everything together up front.

Making progress.....

**jaransonT3** · April 3rd, 2009, 05:26 PM

For the trunk it would have been easier, but I wouldn't have ended up with the roof line that I wanted. Like 1slo3 said i would have still needed a Fastback. Plus I already had my old 71 Fastback and got the orange 70 for free. <G>

I am planning on using the stock Fastback decklid and just laying it down to line up with the new rear cowl. This will leave me a good sized space between the decklid and the rear window that I plan on using for the cooling air intake.

Something like this...

**jaransonT3** · April 3rd, 2009, 05:27 PM

Spent a little time last night chopping the bulk of the extra trunk material out of the way and started cutting and bending the support frame pieces for the rear of the roof. Here is one picture.

Going to try to get some more done tonight...if the rain holds off for a while.

**jaransonT3** · April 3rd, 2009, 05:28 PM

Yeah, engine bay will be stock. I plan on running a Type 3 motor so will have the stock engine cover filling that hole. I will be building some ducting from the vents on the rear cowl to the stock ducts that start in the fenders and snake around to the rear apron before directing air into the back of the engine.

When I get on my computer later, I will sketch something up in PhotoShop to show you what I mean.

Here is a really quick PhotoShop trying to show the duct boxes and airflow to the Type 3 motor.

I also got a little bit more done tonight. Started trying to clean up the rear end some more, including the frame for the decklid.

**jaransonT3** · April 3rd, 2009, 05:29 PM

The vents are going to go. The cooling air will come from the new rear cowl vents between the back glass and the decklid.

I have played around with some two tone paint ideas. I think they are back on Page 2 of this thread. Will have to revisit them with the new ideas I have for the side trim.

******

Got a little more done tonight, but nothing worth posting pics of. I got the 1" square tubing cross brace tacked in at the back edge of the rear window frame. I also cut and fit a brace for the front edge of the package tray.

Not too far away from being able to tack the roof back in place. I am going to flip it over and finish off the side window opening before tacking the roof in place. Much easier to do it with the roof upside down than after it is in place and I have to weld upside down.

**jaransonT3** · April 3rd, 2009, 05:30 PM

More progress today. Was nice having the day off. Got lots done. Nothing real obvious, but important stuff to do.

I trimmed off the glass seal flange on the quarter window opening on the roof.

I also got the cross bracing for the rear of the roof and the package tray fit and welded in.

I also managed to add a dimmer switch to the line feeding my welder. Makes a noticeable difference with my little flux core welder. I blow through much less frequently at about a 75% setting. Thanks for the tip Scott Woodard. Only took me 6 months to get around to doing it.

**jaransonT3** · April 3rd, 2009, 05:31 PM

Been busy getting my Squareback ready for drving this summer and for the VW shows in the area, so I haven't been doing too much on the Lead Sled. I did spend a few hours over the last couple of days starting to get the inner structure for the new rear end in place. I welded in some cross bracing and have started fitting the package tray sheet metal. Here are a few progress pictures.

I want to add a couple diagonal braces on the rear roof support. I also need to make the new center section of the package tray and get it welded in.

Small steps, but steps in the right direction.

**jaransonT3** · April 3rd, 2009, 05:32 PM

Got most of the rear package tray welded in today. Only have a small section at the top rear to finish up and some more welding on the seams.

I also spent Friday night at my buddy Glenn's place finishing up the machine work on the engine case for my 2.0L Type 3 motor for Sophy. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/Dancing.gif[/img] It is nice having friends with Bridgeports and lathes. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/funny.gif[/img]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(rodderdan @ Apr 25 2006, 11:59 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>

Dimmer switches are not made to handle the amount of amperage that a welder uses and is a potential fire in the making.Go to a electrical supply place and tell them what yuo need.You are risking major problems by using a dimmer switch.Better safe than sorry.
[/b][/quote]

I would have thought the same thing, but Scott Woodard did his whole radical rod with a dimmer switch on his cheapo welder without any problems. I used a metal electical box for the switch and it is welded to the cart I built for my welder. I don't expect any problems, but I will keep an eye on it. Thanks for the concern.

**jaransonT3** · April 3rd, 2009, 05:33 PM

A little progress this weekend on the Lead Sled. I spent most of the weekend working on my Squareback, Sophy and getting my oldest son confirmed. Was a good weekend.

Here is the progress...

Get the last patch panel welded in on the package tray. A little more welding and grinding and it will be all set.

I also managed to shave the bump for the front license plate. Michigan doesn't require one.

And I started to fill in a little bit at the a-pillar. You can sort of see the filler panel/reinforcement at the back edge of the pillar on the lower 1/3. I will continue that shape all the way to the roof.

**jaransonT3** · April 3rd, 2009, 05:34 PM

I am adding an extra "L" section to smooth out the back edge of the pillar. This will act as my reinforcement. I considered radiusing the bottom rear corner into the door, but it didn't look right when I mocked it up. I want to keep a sharp corner between the top of the door surface and the A-pillar.

Since I will have a roof attached to the top of the windshield (unlike some people I know [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img] ), I will need less reinforcement than otherwise.