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Old April 16th, 2006, 10:46 PM   #1
roofchop
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I decided to post all my questions in one place and see if people have ideas. I have read the forums for days, and tried the search but came up empty handed.

1) I am in need of some ideas for cutting the shock mounts off the trailing arms. I can't seem to get in there with my 4.5" angle grinder or my 3" cutting wheel.

2) Also I have 2 71 super beetle pans, and the spring plates are different. Is one better than the other?



3) What should I do about the low spots on my roof? (The end of the relief cuts on the white roof the is a v shaped depression across the roof. It is less than .5" low at the lowest point.


4) I was thinking of a new gas tank (link). Can I put it in the back of the car, behind where the back seat would be. Maybe you could fill it from inside the engine compartment. Is it legal most places? safer to leave it in the front?

5) With an after market gas tank, can I remove some of the orignal gas tank supports? Does the one between the shock towers provide structrual support?


6) Lowering two notches in the rear and 4" lowered struts in the front, can expect close to the pic below? Will I need lower profile tires?


Thanks, I am sure there will be more.
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Old April 17th, 2006, 02:45 AM   #2
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Here are a few answers for ya...

Q#1) A: Easiest way to cut them off is to remove them and cut the mount off while the T-arm is on the bench. WHY do you want to cut them off?

Q#2) A: please do not use the lower spring plate. It has been cut to allow for a lower stance in the rear. Cutting a notch in the spring plates is not a big problem, but I've never seen one cut up that far. A simple 1/4" notch will usually do for "most" lowering.

Q#4) A: Yes you can use that tank, but if I were to use it, I'd put the filler neck out the side, And cover the tank to help keep the sun off it. Make sure that you vent the tank well.

Q#5) A: DO NOT CUT ANY SUPPORTS OUT OF THE FRONT OF A SUPER!! [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/FreakinSmiley.gif[/img] I hope I didn't come across as an ass.

Q#6) A: My '73 super is dropped two notches in the rear, and 5" drop strutts, I run 135's up front and still rub fenders. It's even worse the more people you pile in. I'll see if I can find a pic.
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Old April 17th, 2006, 04:50 AM   #3
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I've seen the single spring plates and the dual plates on '71s often, so I think that was a changeover year for those. I haven't seen the duals on a Bug after '71. Type 3s had the duals on '73s even. I did discover that the dual plates would not work with the trailing arms off of a single side plate car. You need to keep the parts matched with each other.

Personally, I wouldn't have cut the spring plates. The plates twist and bend under normal use and with the chunks missing out of them I would think that cracks would propagate easily from the corners of the notches. I would have altered the shock tower stops before I cut the spring plates.

Just my opinion.

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Old April 17th, 2006, 08:27 AM   #4
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Thanks for the replies.

Q #1 & #2 - I have been following Fonzy's how to about flippling the trailing arms and notching the spring plates in the rear. I can't seem to get any cutting tools in to reach the lower shock mounts. The spring plates are notched an 1" based on what I have been reading on the web. It looked like a lot to me after I did it, that's when I discovered my extra pair of spring plates are different. They look like you might just be able to notch the inner plate and not the outer plate. I can pull the trailing arms off the other car as well. Would this work?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Q#6) A: My '73 super is dropped two notches in the rear, and 5" drop strutts, I run 135's up front and still rub fenders. It's even worse the more people you pile in. I'll see if I can find a pic.[/b][/quote]

No rear camber problems, no need to flip the trailing arms, no need for notches in the spring plates?

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Old April 17th, 2006, 08:59 AM   #5
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I'd leave the tank in the stock location.
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Old April 17th, 2006, 09:12 AM   #6
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You can use bondo to smooth out your roof, but if it dips too low then you may want to consider rewelding it better?

I'd also would prefer not to have the gas tank inside the car. But if I really wanted to I'd fully enclose it off from the passengers with a box or something and have the filler from the outside. I personally wouldn't consider putting the filler in the inside. There seems to be enough room for a round tank to go in the trunk. But you also have to be very careful if you modify the trunk of a Super because the trunk itself is part of the suspension.
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Old April 17th, 2006, 09:18 AM   #7
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wow, a good, productive post from a newbie!!! niiicceeee

that chop, and stance in the last photo, reminds me of marks (vwhabits) car, probably my favorite looking chopped fendered car....-JustinD
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Old April 17th, 2006, 09:36 AM   #8
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(roofchop @ Apr 17 2006, 11:27 AM) Quoted post</div><div class='quotemain'>
Thanks for the replies.

Q #1 & #2 - I have been following Fonzy's how to about flippling the trailing arms and notching the spring plates in the rear. I can't seem to get any cutting tools in to reach the lower shock mounts. The spring plates are notched an 1" based on what I have been reading on the web. It looked like a lot to me after I did it, that's when I discovered my extra pair of spring plates are different. They look like you might just be able to notch the inner plate and not the outer plate. I can pull the trailing arms off the other car as well. Would this work?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Q#6) A: My '73 super is dropped two notches in the rear, and 5" drop strutts, I run 135's up front and still rub fenders. It's even worse the more people you pile in. I'll see if I can find a pic.[/b][/quote]

No rear camber problems, no need to flip the trailing arms, no need for notches in the spring plates?

roofchop
[/b][/quote]


My spring plates are notched, but onlt 1/4". I do not have a camber problem in the rear, but I also have a slight rake. I'm running 195-60-15's out back, so to go lower And still have suspension travel, I would need wider fenders.

As for Fonzy's drop, that is for really low cars. If you are only planning on dropping it two splines, you shouldn't need to flip the arms. If you do, you may get camber the other way. I've never tried to flip the arms and only drop two splined, so I'm not sure. I'll post pics of my '73 tonight.
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Old April 17th, 2006, 10:59 AM   #9
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For the dip in the roof,the solution depends on why it happened.

I'm hoping it's just tacked in position. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/Idunno.gif[/img]

Maybe your release cuts need to be longer,and extend on both sides of the join.
Or maybe the A-pillar needs to be trimmed a touch.

Chopping a Beetle is like sectioning an Egg,and expecting the lines to flow.




1/2" is too thick to just fill with Bondo. See what you can do about getting it closer.
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Old April 17th, 2006, 02:30 PM   #10
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My roof had a dip in it similar to yours. I ended up having to take out about an extra 3/4" from the windshield posts in the front. I only took out about 1/8" at a time till I got it right. It took a while. I ended up having to put in about 1/2" filler piece on the roof above the door to make up for what I took out of the windshield posts. Here's a pic showing where I cut and added to fix the "dip"

Last edited by JoeBoy; August 26th, 2006 at 04:50 PM.
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Old April 17th, 2006, 06:40 PM   #11
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Have you considered sectioning in a different roof center. That would solve the problem along with cutting and rewelding a bit. By the way I like chopped flat windshield supers alot. They look great due to the wide ft. fenders.

You might wanna consider widened ft. fenders if your gonna go super low. (no pun intended) I ran on temps on a super with a very extreme dropany they still would rub a little. 135's would not fit lets put it that way. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rollingeyes.gif[/img]
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Old April 18th, 2006, 07:06 AM   #12
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Cool, thanks for the replies. Let's see what I have learned.

Q1,2,6 - to get the stance in the last pic (~6") I need to lower the rear about 2 splines, no need to flip the trailing arms, small notch in the spring plates. Can I use the dual spring plates and notch the inner one with the matching trailing arms? Will this match my 4" drop in the front?

Q4,5 - I will leave the tank in the stock location, maybe even stay with the stock tank (I have 2).

Q3 - The roof! I have been trying to get my hands on a 3rd roof to fix the depression, one with a stock sunroof. The depression is a result of the blue roof being wider than the white roof, so I had to strech it a little. What about using a more flexible fiberglass filler to make up some of the difference than using a standard filler to finnish it off. Nobody around town wants to part with a roof section very cheaply.

Thanks for all the ideas. It has been in pieces for so long, last friday we put the pan on bricks, dropped the body on, leaned some tires up against the side. Thought it looked cool fenderless too, but like the fenders.


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Old April 18th, 2006, 11:59 AM   #13
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keep the fenders man, get some nice wide ones, and wider running boards, would look bad ass...


do you guys have pick n pulls where you live, there are always bugs, shouldn't be hard to takea sawzall and rip one off of a bug sitting waiting to get crushed...

yes, you COULD use marglass (fiberglass reinforced bondo) but that would be ALOT...i mean ALOT of coats, and sanding, and coating, and sanding and sanding and sanding, and coats, and sanding, coats, sanding, THEN more onto regular bondo, sanding, coating, sanding coating.....all this WHILE trying to keep the curve to the roof....good fucking luck, i think even pro's would have a hard time with that, and you'd need a good sized flexible sanding board...

i say find a roof section and cut a bigass hole, replace it...-JustinD
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