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Old May 18th, 2011, 11:49 PM   #1
Slot
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Location: Aalborg, Denmark
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Talking "Made in Denmark" Intro / Build Thread

Hi everyone!.. I guess this should end up being my introduction to this place.
Name: Michael
Location: Aalborg, Denmark
Age: 35 (mentally maybe some years younger)
Profession: Blacksmith, Machine Technician, 3D CAD Admin/Supervisor

I’ve been hooked by Volkswagens since I was 8 y.o. when I realized that my grandmother had one. Since then I’ve had 5 Type1’s and lots of half cars/parts etc. etc. I bought the first (1302 Super beetle ‘72) back in 1993.

For many years I wanted to build what I believed one day should be a manx-style beach buggy, as I always thought this was an insanely cool looking and special vehicle.
Over the years I learned that buggies (imo) looks better than they actually drive, and that they usually ends up looking a bit too identical. I’ve also considered building a 356 Speedster, but basically that’s the same story, just WAY more expensive since (in Denmark) these cars within the last few years have been re-defined as “Replicas” instead of “Kit-Cars. This has resulted in a “Conversion-Tax” at approximately $5500 !!

Well… Suddenly, some years ago, I found this site, which turned out to be tremendously beneficial. My chronic illness (in the form of craving for the air cooled beauties) suddenly became strongly aggravated, or rather “upgraded” to making me believe in creating rod style rides just as I want it!.. But again, I still don’t know quite exactly what I want, due to the constant emergence of new ideas, (not least because of this site). I finally realized that I just need to start doing something and then see how things turn out.

2 years ago I bought my property which back in the 80’s and 90’s housed an Auto paint/body-shop. All equipment was left for me. It's used but fully functional, including a 350 m² Garage so I really had no excuse not to get started finally taking care of my passion.
First steps of my first V-rod project will be posted here within a day or two

Regards, Michael
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Old May 20th, 2011, 06:01 PM   #2
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Talking Re: "Made in Denmark" Intro

This is what I have chosen as the base for my project.



It's a 1973 Superbettle (1303) which is pretty much ROT at the lower 3 inches all around. All fender mounts are gone and there’s a significant damage to the front. Fortunately I don’t need any of the mentioned.

Plans are (basically) to remove all the McPherson stuff, Shorten the body, turn it into a bathtub and put it on a shortened floor pan with 65- Ball joint frame head. Lots of other stuff is planned but I’ll get into that a bit later.

I bought this car for fun a while ago for less than I can have for the registration papers. Besides that, is has a great running 1300 AB engine and gearbox which I guess will be re-used as well, at least as a temporary solution.

Now.. I know it’s a Super with the “ugly dash” and the “way to short and buffy hood”.. This is 99% part of the idea. I have never seen anyone build a “rod” out of these.. Maybe someone has done it, but not that I know of. Feel free to show me some examples.

More to come.. Gotta begin with the floorpan.. ( well i already did..)

Cheers.
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Old May 20th, 2011, 09:54 PM   #3
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Talking Re: "Made in Denmark" Intro

In Denmark we have some pretty strict rules and regulations regarding car rebuilding/customizing although, they are a bit special for the older VW’s.

In the 60’s, when the first manx style beach buggies where sold here, they where unfortunately only officially approved as vehicles based on Type1 pans, shortened 15 inches. Later when the 356 Speedster kits became popular, an approval was made for 10¾ inch shortening as well.

Today, these approvals are still the general MOT guidelines when shortening pans. I’d wish not to care about this at all, but since no official type approval was made for buggies with full-length pans, they are not considered as “self-sustaining”. This ‘makes’ the body part of the sustaining construction and then I’m practically not allowed to do any modifications to the body at all.
The conclusion: I’ll have to reg the car as a shortened buggy…

I guess i'll figure out something, but I also want the car to be road legal and still have that stretched look which for me defines a rod..

Dont we all love rules ??

Chassis pics. to come next.
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Old May 20th, 2011, 10:46 PM   #4
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Talking Re: "Made in Denmark" Intro

As I probably mentioned earlier, the chassis will be made of leftovers. A late-model IRS rear and a Ball joint Front.

12 years ago local friend/mechanic had plans into bugs but lost the interest and he sold me a Swedish imported floor pan including a complete beam with disc brakes for the harsh price of $10. It had NO rust at all, truly as brand new inside and outside. Unfortunately the rear end was damaged (bend) at the shock mount castings and at the tranny-forks so I cut the tunnel and saved the front.

When writing this is, realize that these chunks of metal has followed me like a family member.. I have moved like 3 times and it’s still here.. Scary Sh..!



The rear end is the cleanest IRS type I could dig up of my “stock”. I Prefer IRS instead of SA, not because of any usual arguments like which type is best for drag racing or maneuvering, but simply because I like the IRS construction better. However, I might flip the trailing arms to avoid the caster angle being too Tyre-killer’ish if it turns out to be necessary.



I have fitted and arranged both halves for an 8 inch shortening. Cut all heater tubes and closed the holes. The Tubes for clutch, gas and handbrake has been loosened carefully and the holes/mounts has been grinded and fitted so they’re ready to re-weld.





Most is tacked into place after hours of measuring, aligning, swearing, realingning, remeasuring reswearing.. re.... re... (i guess thats what ppl calls PITA)



Got some serious fitting issues to solve where to to tunnel halfes meets.. It's the eternal problem with joining two totally different shaped profiles... More about that later..





Cheers
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Old May 20th, 2011, 10:48 PM   #5
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Talking Re: "Made in Denmark" Intro

I had a BAD day today.. .. So.. the only therapy that works is a couple of hours in the garage. I felt like doing some smaller things in order to finish something.

The gear selector on a 65 bug is placed 6,3 inches closer to the bulkhead than on a Super so i've decided to move it as far back as possible as i hate the feeling of 'learning forward' in order to change gears.

I know it's allmost nothing but to give a little extra distance i decided to shorten the e-brake handle and at the same time straighten it out so it follows the tunnel instead of beeing visually half drawn when released.. It might not be what ppl usually does in the rod-world, but it's what i want!.



Parts fitted, welded, and rattle primed:


And back in place:




Well.. No gear shifter was moved, but at least i'm ready to, and i had something done..

Tomorrow (or actually later today) i'll have to finished the last tunnel mods.

Also this little piece was cut of from a donor:


^ I'm not sure wheter i need to do this or not, but since its part of an original Super, i'd just as well do it.

Ohh.. I allmost forgot.. The rims for the build, unless i change my mind..


Hope you like 'em.. I do!. it's 7,5's front and 10's back.

Cheers, and have a nice day. More to come later.
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Old May 25th, 2011, 09:04 AM   #6
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Default Re: "Made in Denmark" Intro

Reached to do about 1/3 of what i wanted today. (well.. yay!) I underestimated how much time it would take, fitting the shifter to it's new location. I'm not in a hurry so just glad that things worked out

I needed to switch the two masked areas and also fix the annoying sharp dent at the shifter mount.



Parts cut and re-arranged


I realized that i couldn't do a descent repair to the dent without welding a piece in. Sadly i don't have any gas torch kit (yet) so i fitted another piece which i made it little bit longer to minimize the welding gaps.


I have now learned that these cuts has to be done approx 2 inch from the bottom of the tunnel in order to make the curved lines fit right. I didn't know that before i began, så it became a pretty tuff job with lots of twisting, bending and stessed tackwelds every quarter god damn inch.. .. And no.. This is not how welds should look like..
So far, It turned out ok in the end, but i didn't have time to finish welding it. (a tiny bit at the time). At this point i'm glad i did not finish the weld where i shortened the tunnel. All this welding might cause some twisting and thereby a re-alignment of the two bottom halfs. I don't know for sure yet.
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Old May 26th, 2011, 11:51 AM   #7
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Default Re: "Made in Denmark" Intro

Had a little done earlier..
Tons of other stuff to do today, so no more words for now.





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Old September 29th, 2012, 08:04 AM   #8
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Default Re: "Made in Denmark" Intro

The project is still alive, allthough it's a more comprehensive pile of rot than i could ever imagine..
Anyway, i've become a bit stubborn, so i'll keep it alive..


Violently cut apart to get rid of all the McPherson stuff..



To be updated soon :)
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Old October 2nd, 2012, 12:11 PM   #9
Slot
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Default Re: "Made in Denmark" Intro

Had to do something this sunday..

As mentioned i need to shorten the body around 16" in order to get a minor strecthed look on an 8" shortened pan. This will be done in 2 steps.

The first 8" has to be cut out from the section behind the doors. The next 8 will be cut from the door section itself.

Finally i'll channel the shortened body 4 inches.. (maybe with 1" rake to the front.. Maybe...)

I've not yet decided if i want to keep the doors.. Depending of the final height i might weld them shut..

A while ago i cut the channels in order to be able to move the damn thing.. Now i had to put it back together for alignment reasons.




The first 8" removed..




Sections cut and ready to be joined again.


..And slowly beeing tacked back together.


Partly done!.. I'm not gonna fully weld it before the door section is shortened as well..



Thats it for now.. At least i had something done..

Cheers!
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Old October 5th, 2012, 01:03 PM   #10
Slot
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Default Re: "Made in Denmark" Intro

For those who do not see the comment thread(s) i owe to post a pic of what i originally planned for this build.



Summary:

Body Shortened 16"
Pan Shortened 8"
Channeling (with heater channels) 4 in" with "some" rake to the front
65' balljoint front suspension with dropped spindles and torsion adjusters.
IRS rear suspension with flipped trailing arms, lowered at much as possible, without tranny raise etc.
Windshield frame chopped 4".
Slotmags.. 7.5" front and 10's in the rear.

++
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