DD's 63 - Page 4 - Cut-Weld-Drive Forums

**purplemyth** · May 18th, 2012, 01:09 AM

In the way back days when clear was thick, we used 200. These days it's thinner so depending on the clear 320 or higher.
Should be able to find out thru a manufacturer's site?

**Double D** · May 18th, 2012, 09:41 AM

I have tried 4 manufacturer's data sheets and they all come up blank for reasons unknown to me....... I'll figure it out one way or another..... usually from trial and error.

**purplemyth** · May 18th, 2012, 09:56 AM

Ok, so what brand are you using? Maybe someone here has used it and has an idea?

**Double D** · May 18th, 2012, 10:53 AM

Either dupont or Sherwin Williams, depending on local availability. I don't want to use too fine of grit and have it NOT stick or too coarse and show the scratches.

Theycallmepickle · May 18th, 2012, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Double D

So, I have a question......what grit do I sand with before coating with clear??

none? What kind of paint is it and why would you think you sand before clear coat? If there are areas that need touching up then nib them with 600 and dust some paint over it again before clear coat. The only reason you would sand it before painting was if it was a solvent cured paint (ie. 2k clear). If it is just a laquer base then it will "melt" when hit with clear coat and all blend together.

**Double D** · May 18th, 2012, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Theycallmepickle

none? What kind of paint is it and why would you think you sand before clear coat? If there are areas that need touching up then nib them with 600 and dust some paint over it again before clear coat. The only reason you would sand it before painting was if it was a solvent cured paint (ie. 2k clear). If it is just a laquer base then it will "melt" when hit with clear coat and all blend together.

My color coat is Acrylic Laquer primer, Red Oxide, so what I'm understanding is spray on the clear and I'm good to go?

Theycallmepickle · May 18th, 2012, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Double D

My color coat is Acrylic Laquer primer, Red Oxide, so what I'm understanding is spray on the clear and I'm good to go?

Yes sir, if you're really worried about it sticking use a grey or blue scotch brite pad on it before clear coat, personally I wouldnt in fear of having it show through the clear.

**Double D** · May 18th, 2012, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Theycallmepickle

Yes sir, if you're really worried about it sticking use a grey or blue scotch brite pad on it before clear coat, personally I wouldnt in fear of having it show through the clear.

Thank you, I haven't ever used a clear before, there fore my ignorance about it.

**Double D** · May 22nd, 2012, 05:16 PM

I've started rebuilding the 81 year old Chevrolet headlights.
One of the buckets needed a dent removed, there is also a crack needing attention. I'll re wire the factory terminals because they are still in good condition.

Dent removed.

**Double D** · May 30th, 2012, 09:11 PM

I was digging around in a parts box and found these new door strikes, also the turn signal housings i was looking for.

I'm going to ad amber 1157 bulbs to my headlights, using the vw bulb sockets.
first order is to punch a 3/4" hole for the socket.

next is trimming the top of the socket, drilling 2 #21 holes, and with #6-32 screws and nuts, mount the socket.

soldered electrical fittings....I ran out of shrink tube..... so....yes they will be insulated.

next up is new wires to get 12v to the new bulbs.
Heated up the bulb contacts with a solder iron and they come off easily.

here is rusty crusty next to the fresh harness

harness to the rear of the bucket

park and signal wires connect under the mount and will pass through it.

Here it is powered direct to the battery.......everything woorks!!

soon I hope!

Doc · May 31st, 2012, 11:07 AM

nice, in the same boat I am today, gotta refurb some old headlights.... your lucky though because you got the internal blinker.... I got to figure out where to put one :(

Gotta ask, even though I may just recive a "

" Whats the final paint gonna look like? color/design?

**Double D** · May 31st, 2012, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doc

nice, in the same boat I am today, gotta refurb some old headlights.... your lucky though because you got the internal blinker.... I got to figure out where to put one :(

Gotta ask, even though I may just recive a "

" Whats the final paint gonna look like? color/design?

The internal signal is something I installed into the assembly, they didn't come with them. The color scheme is the Red Oxide primer with a flat clear coat. I might put some scallops on it but not sure yet.

**Double D** · June 20th, 2012, 12:17 AM

I was planning on sealing up this leaky 1600 and found some seriously worn pistons and cylinders. Not having the cash to build a fresh engine had me a littled bummed out.

The next tear down was a 1600 short block I've had for many years. The case had two studs pulled out so it would need case savers installed. The good was the crank and rods are in good condition but I need a good set of pistons and cylinders.

Next up is another engine that came with a car I bought and sold a few years ago...GEX...

. I was told it was an 1835 and it had a spun main bearing. I pulled the # 3-4 head and see 90.43 on the top of one of the pistons (1776).

The other thing I see is the #3 cylinder had something small go through it. so now I'm thinking this might be why he thought it spun a bearing? Maybe?

Mahle P&C's

Jugs and pistons are off and I'll split the case tomorrow, hoping to find some good bearings.

**Double D** · June 21st, 2012, 07:06 PM

While Tapping the case halves with my dead blow, I notice metal shavings falling out of the stud bosses??

I also found a junk rod, bearing, and crank.

Further inspection shows the heads were walking around on the jugs and the jugs were walking around on the case. So, I'll take the case and heads to the machine shop and find out if they can be saved or sold for scrap.

**Double D** · June 21st, 2012, 07:12 PM

I'm going to slap the tired but running 1600 back together and sell it. hopefully I can get enough money out of it to pay for some machine work.

**d3ghia** · June 21st, 2012, 09:27 PM

Hey D,

I am coming through Barstow on the 28th. If I know some of the parts that you are looking for this build, and I have them, maybe we can meet up and you can help me clean my garage a bit.

**Double D** · June 22nd, 2012, 06:25 PM

Thank you very much for that offer Keith. I'm booked all week with a tile job and I have to get it done by the 28th so we can leave for montana on the 29th. My best option for the moment is selling the engine I had in the car (I know it runs), but for how long in the desert heat??

When I get back from Montana I'll take the two cases and the two pairs of DP heads I have to the machine shop and get everything hot tanked and measured and go from there.

**d3ghia** · June 22nd, 2012, 11:57 PM

Dang! I was hoping we could meet in person! Sounds like your vacation time is the same as mine. I am leaving here the 28th to get to San Fran on the 29th to spend some time with my Dad. I return on the 10th. Have fun in Montana, and enjoy a break from the desert!

**Double D** · August 29th, 2012, 09:46 PM

Two hours ago I sealed the deal on an abandoned 71 SB project with the roof cut off and a solid drive train. I had been pestering the owner for a month and tonight she called and said I could have it.
I'm really thinking about converting my 63 to IRS. I will have all of the parts for the swap, I'll only have to weld in the inner pivot mounts for the trailing arms. Hopefully this score will solve my engine woes as well!!

**d3ghia** · August 29th, 2012, 10:32 PM

D!

Congrats! Just welding in the inner pivots is sort of a bitch! I did that on my '62. I borrowed a jig from a guy that had one......made it tons easier!

metalmaster1766 · August 30th, 2012, 02:47 AM

Lookin good Double D

I like those Chevy headlights, I'd like to get some old light buckets like those

I'm also getting ready to put some IRS brackets on my 66 swing axle floor pan, but 1st I'm gonna make me those brackets using an old rusted IRS rear torsion housing so I get them in the correct position, only reason I'm doing that is I have other plans for the swing axle

So, when are ya gonna be ready to start driving it ? or maybe I missed it when reading

Ron

**Double D** · August 30th, 2012, 06:12 AM

It shouldn't be that big of a deal making a pair of jigs. I'll have the IRS pan to build them from. Now doing the install with the body on might be a bitch but isn't that just part of the challenge and reward?

Ron, Thanks!
I would really like to have it on the road and reliable by the end of the year but only time will tell. I will have it drivable before I do the conversion .

**Double D** · August 30th, 2012, 09:37 PM

Photos of the toppless SB.... after I rape it of it's parts and my 63 is on the road, I see this one as an RPU. my 14 y/o daughter agrees and would love to own it.

**Double D** · September 3rd, 2012, 09:52 PM

I gambled on my parts car hoping the engine was in good condition. my experience and gut feeling proved to be right, the engine is in great condition. 5 hours of cleaning and prep, a little tuning and she runs like a champ.

Video

**Double D** · October 10th, 2012, 09:12 PM

The SB has been stripped of its ass end parts.

I then made some jigs off of the IRS mounts so I can convert My '63 pan to IRS.

Picked up this rust free '58 body today! Why? I just couldn't pass it up and it's perfect to chop!