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Old May 20th, 2012, 11:08 AM   #1
Rawbdad
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Default Disk brake bleeding

Ok so I am having to bandaid the repairs needed on my volksrod to get it on the road while lawyers and insurance fight out what I should really get. With that said, I purchased a used beam, drum to drum with both metal and soft rubber brake lines still attached. I got my whole front end back together and I am now trying to bleed the brake system. Since the right front stainless line was snapped off in the wreck, I used the sift rubber line (looks next to new) on the right side while the rest of the car is still running stainless. The pedal is loose and going to the floor on the bleeding. The drivers side front is pushing fluid with no air. The pass side front is sputtering fluid, no steady flow and the more we pump ten and hold, nothing is changing. Could there be an issue with the different size hose? What am I doing wrong? I tried opening the lower bleeder on the right front and it has a steady flow, top not so much.

This is the ghia drop disk conversion. Brakes worked fine before the accident with the pedal barely going half way.
Gotta get this done so I have a car again. HELP
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Old May 20th, 2012, 12:30 PM   #2
bigguy
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Default Re: Disk brake bleeding

get the right hose on there. Also try gravity bleeding that side by leaving the bleeder open for a while and walk away from it.
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Old May 20th, 2012, 05:01 PM   #3
Rawbdad
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Default Re: Disk brake bleeding

Yeah, I am an idiot...took a break and then went back out to find that the reservoir has two compartments and the other doesn't fill until the one with the nozzle on top has fluid to the top. Front brake reservoir was empty, filled the whole thing up and presto chango, I have brakes. Took the car out for a spin and why not have a new problem, engine got hot FAST and by the time I got home, the coolant was dumping out of the coolant reservoir. The only effect of the accident on the engine was a dent in the radiator, seemed to be holding fluid and blew air through with no blockage, but obviously not good enough...
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Old May 22nd, 2012, 03:46 AM   #4
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Default Re: Disk brake bleeding

Well even tho you fixed your problem, I'll go ahead & say this -


My brake bleeding tutorial

A few years ago I bought a "one man brake bleeding kit at Auto Zone for $2.99, it looks exactly like THIS
(if the link doesn't work go to Auto Zone's web site & search "One man brake bleeder kit")

I put a little hose (comes with kit) they are clear so you can see when air stops coming out as well as when nice clean brake fluid starts coming out

I stick the bottle as high as I can get it (it has a magnet on the bottle) then I open the bleeder valve an keep the fluid reservoir full, then if your in no hurry sit back & watch the clear hose for air bubbles, they should rise, when you see no more air tighten the bleeder valve & move on to your next wheel

If you wanna get it finished faster, just make sure you put a little brake fluid inside the bottle, hook it up & loosen bleeder screw, then get in & push brake pedal as far as possible, do this until clean fluid starts coming out the bleeder valve, tighten it, then get rid of the old brake fluid

I now have 2 brake bleeder kits, so I'm able to do 2 wheels at a time, 1st the rear, then the front, just make damn sure you keep the brake fluid reservoir filled because if you let it get empty your gonna hafta start all over

You can make a 1 man brake bleeder using a glass jar or a plastic bottle & some hose, put a 1/4 to 3/8 inch of fluid into the bottle or jar so the end of the hose is submerged in brake fluid, the other end hooked to the bleeder screw

IF the hose isn't submerged when you let off the brake pedal it will suck air back inside your brake calipers/wheel cylinders & means you need to do it again

1 other thing for those who don't know is, ALWAYS start with the longest brake line first, usually the right rear, then left rear, then right front & last do the left front

here is the long url to auto zone's bleeder kit

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...mString=search



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Last edited by metalmaster1766; May 22nd, 2012 at 03:50 AM. Reason: added lonk link to Auto Zone's 1 man bleeder kit
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Old May 22nd, 2012, 06:19 AM   #5
jkien65
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Default Re: Disk brake bleeding

One thing I discovered with disc brakes on the front and drums on the rear, I couldnt hold pressure. Took forever to bleed the rear brakes. Not until I installed a 10 pound residual pressure valve did I get any pedal. There is a 2 pound valve too, that is for the disc brakes. I havent installed that one yet, they seem to be holding up well.

The theory is that the wheel cylinders are higher than the master, so all the fluid runs back. The residual pressure valves keep that from happening. I am assuming your car is lowered tho. Mine is alot and this is the only thing that would fix my problem.
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Old May 22nd, 2012, 08:34 AM   #6
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Default Re: Disk brake bleeding

Quote:
Originally Posted by jkien65 View Post
The theory is that the wheel cylinders are higher than the master, so all the fluid runs back. The residual pressure valves keep that from happening. I am assuming your car is lowered tho. Mine is alot and this is the only thing that would fix my problem.
Exactly!

Had to put rpv's on the Chevy to keep the pressure in the lines after I put dics on the front. I have them on the front and rear lines. Two different pressures (forget what pressures) I got my from summit.
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Old May 22nd, 2012, 09:03 AM   #7
jkien65
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Default Re: Disk brake bleeding

I got mine from CIP1. 10# for the rear and 2# for the front. Dont know if they are different for the chevy. Mine were a universal type of deal, with SAE threads in the valve part. Made my own connector for them.
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