Super beetle caster angle - Cut-Weld-Drive Forums

JiI · July 15th, 2012, 08:54 PM

Can anyone confirm the caster angle of a super beetle? I think it is -2*. Working on my volksrod and want to make sure the front isn't skittish. Thanks!
Jeff

rostigbug · July 15th, 2012, 11:41 PM

JiI buddy it is
+2
you can be off by .5
so that would be as much as 2.5 or as little as 1.5
it is important to get both sides the same tho-
If you were 2.5 on one side and 1.5 on the other you would be "in spec"
BUT
It would be poor handling

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=206764

JiI · July 16th, 2012, 04:56 AM

Thanks Tim. That means the spindles are leaning back about 2*, correct?

Roddy · July 16th, 2012, 06:59 AM

Supers, especially lowered supers, like to have as much caster as possible.

risk · July 16th, 2012, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JiI

Thanks Tim. That means the spindles are leaning back about 2*, correct?

Yes, they should be leaning back. You want more caster if you run at higher speeds, ie: over 100 mph. But, more caster makes the car harder to steer at lower speeds so it's a bit of a trade off. This is why VW was so conservative with it's alignement specs.. lower speeds and easy steering.

I only used the toe spec when i set up my car (standard beetle). The camber spec calls for positive camber, not really ideal for a performance car if you like to corner hard. I used about 1 degree negative camber (tires leaning in at the top) and about 3 degrees of caster. My car is raked, so i could really use more caster shims.

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h5.../Untitled3.jpg

Roddy · July 16th, 2012, 09:49 AM

I have one question though, how are you "Adjusting" the caster?

JiI · July 16th, 2012, 12:48 PM

That is a LOADED question!

My front end is made of superbeetle spindles with the lower tracking arms in place but I have a second set flipped and mounted on top of the spindles. They will be connected to hairpins and custom mounts. I just need to pull the top back and the bottom forward a hair. All fully adjustable.

Jeff

**38Chevy454** · July 17th, 2012, 06:12 AM

More caster than 2 degrees will make it more stable and self-centering. About 6 degrees is common on straight axle (like using an old Ford I-beam axle for example).

I would put a bit more in from stock, as it is likely you will offset some of that with rake due to larger tires in rear, and/or more drop in front. You want the end result to have at least 2 degrees, I would recommend 4-6 if you can get it. Skinny front tires will be easier to steer than wider tires.

rostigbug · July 17th, 2012, 06:25 AM

good points '38
JII you would be wise to listen.
this guy speaks from experience

JiI · July 17th, 2012, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rostigbug

good points '38
JII you would be wise to listen.
this guy speaks from experience

Yeah, I have 700s on the front (29.5" diameter) and I designed the suspension in AutoCAD and have a nice amount of flexibility in the caster. I can adjust the top arm to come back and the lower arm will come forward. I did some preliminary math and am able to put in about 8* before I need to start retweaking suspension mounts. I could incorporate anti-dive but it might be overkill for a small and light car. Nearly zero bumpsteer, low scrub radius and not a lot of camber change but I only designed in a max of 4" of jounce and 3" of droop. Zero body rake. I designed it so all the hairpins are perfectly level.
Jeff