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Old February 8th, 2014, 12:08 PM   #26
V8Transporter
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Default Re: Effigy's history

"As it turned out, my body doesn't even have the oval hole that the grommet is supposed to attach to..."


Um, sounds like a personal problem.
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Old February 8th, 2014, 12:10 PM   #27
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"As it turned out, my body doesn't even have the oval hole that the grommet is supposed to attach to..."


Um, sounds like a personal problem.

haha, yea, but i love you guys so much I gotta share everything! ;P
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Old February 9th, 2014, 01:25 PM   #28
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alright, so accomplished everything EXCEPT getting to start it...

look at my clock at one point and it was about 630.. next time i looked at it, i was pulling on the doors of orielly's wondering why they were closed already and it was 902.. :(

I wound up being about a quart and a half low on oil to try and start it..

So gonna get out and buy more oil today and hopefully have a video to post tonight :P
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Old February 9th, 2014, 04:04 PM   #29
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Default Re: Effigy's history

had to go to three different stores to find 30wt oil.. got some, poured it in with a bottle of Lucas break in oil, it cranks over but won't fire.. no idea why :/
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Old February 9th, 2014, 04:26 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whozawhat View Post
is it getting spark?, Is the timing set correctly, fuel? check all of the basics
getting fuel, did static timing by getting to TDC for #1 and turning the distributor until the rotor and cap were lined up..

no idea if it's getting spark, kinda intimidated by the MSD and don't wanna zap the shit outta myself trying to find out.. :P

still tired and hungover from last night so i'm taking a break and having a pizza delivered.. :P
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Old February 10th, 2014, 01:47 PM   #31
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just wanted to post a pic I took saturday night when almost everything was in.. I still need to plug the tops of the carbs, the stupid red cone filter is temporary but I only had one..



I also apparently lost one of the hinge things.. they were both on my work bench, but one is gone now..
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Old February 10th, 2014, 02:46 PM   #32
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Default Re: Effigy's history

Is that pink or red???
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Old February 10th, 2014, 02:56 PM   #33
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Is that pink or red???
red, just weird flash bounce.. :P



better shot for color..
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Old February 10th, 2014, 08:34 PM   #34
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Looking good.
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Old February 10th, 2014, 09:41 PM   #35
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Default Re: Effigy's history

Check your carbs again. Check the idle jet for clogging, doublecheck your settings too.
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Old February 10th, 2014, 10:48 PM   #36
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hopefully that is an old picture and you do have the ignition system properly and completely wired up.


or is that why it won't fire??
haha yeah, it was still on the engine stand in that picture.. wiring is pretty straight forward, the three wires going tot he alternator, two wires to the oil pressure/temp module thing (took a picture when i disconnected them, so they are connected properly..) one wire to oil pressure idiot light sensor, ignition switch wire to small red wire on MSD box, MSD small black wire to neg side of coil, MSD orange wire to pos side of coil, MSD thirck red wire to 12v, MSD thick black to ground..

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Looking good.
Thanks :)

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Check your carbs again. Check the idle jet for clogging, doublecheck your settings too.
They were rebuilt about a year and a half to two years ago, fully cleaned and cleared, they've ran for about 15 minutes since other than that been sitting on the passenger seat.. I set them up with the lean best idle process.. mixture screws lightly seated then backed out a full turn.. the idle screws don't do anything anymore because of the sync link linkage..
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Old February 14th, 2014, 10:17 AM   #37
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Default Re: Effigy's history

The engine is pink! It's painted to match his Volksrods beanie
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Old February 14th, 2014, 10:24 AM   #38
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The engine is pink! It's painted to match his Volksrods beanie
My thoughts exactly! I'd call him a fag if he wasn't married!





ya Matt!
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Old February 14th, 2014, 03:24 PM   #39
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Just a good cover being married.
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Old February 18th, 2014, 11:58 PM   #40
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My thoughts exactly! I'd call him a fag if he wasn't married!





ya Matt!
you're just mad because I turned you down after Steve dumped you!
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Old February 20th, 2014, 07:06 PM   #41
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ok, so I got it to run tonight.. Timing was off, had to rotate the distributor about 1/2 an inch counter clockwise.. but it finally starts..

now I have to get the idle set.. My throttle cable MIGHT be a tiny bit too long, I have it adjusted almost as far as it will go to tighten it up but it still requires just the slightest bit of pressure on the gas pedal or it sputters out and dies..

once i get the idle set I can zero in the timing and then work on tuning the carbs.. but hey, baby steps :) it runs gain so I'm relatively happy for now..

edit: also have a good amount of white smoke coming out of one exhaust pipe.. I'm guessing it's because that glasspack is brand new so maybe there's shit inside that needs to burn away or something.. should i be concerned?
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Old February 21st, 2014, 03:47 AM   #42
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ok, so I got it to run tonight.. Timing was off, had to rotate the distributor about 1/2 an inch counter clockwise.. but it finally starts..

now I have to get the idle set.. My throttle cable MIGHT be a tiny bit too long, I have it adjusted almost as far as it will go to tighten it up but it still requires just the slightest bit of pressure on the gas pedal or it sputters out and dies..

once i get the idle set I can zero in the timing and then work on tuning the carbs.. but hey, baby steps :) it runs gain so I'm relatively happy for now..

edit: also have a good amount of white smoke coming out of one exhaust pipe.. I'm guessing it's because that glasspack is brand new so maybe there's shit inside that needs to burn away or something.. should i be concerned?
Fer the cable issue......you shouldnt have to adjust the cable for idle speed........I wouldnt think anyway.....should just be a stop screw on the carb.....I see it in yer other pic.....its at the 12 oclock behind the wheels.
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Old February 21st, 2014, 06:45 AM   #43
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Fer the cable issue......you shouldnt have to adjust the cable for idle speed........I wouldnt think anyway.....should just be a stop screw on the carb.....I see it in yer other pic.....its at the 12 oclock behind the wheels.

yeah the screws are still there but they don't actually interact with anything.. the way sync link is designed, when you connect the driver's side carb wheel to the pedal, you depress the pedal fully while someone else turns the wheel to WOT, measure the cable, cut and install the barrel thing on the end of it.. This way WOT is determined by the pedal being fuly depressed. This is a little room for adjustment there where the cable comes out of the sleeve before it connects to the wheel. but the pedal must have come up on me during my measuring because I've got that adjustment almost all the way backed out and the idle is still slightly low.. If i put just the tiniest bit of pressure on the pedal it stays running but as soon as I remove my foot, it sputters and dies..

edit: rechecked the photo you are talking about, that's the passenger side carb and the end of the throttle line.. adjusting that idle screw would ONLY adjust the passenger carb..

The sync link throttle cable goes from the pedal to the wheel on the driver's side carb, then a second cable goes from that wheel to the wheel on the passenger carb.. Basically, the pedal directly opens the driver's carb and the wheel on the driver's carb opens the passenger carb the same amount.. to sync you simply put the pedal to the floor and tighten/loosen the passenger carb throttle cable until both carbs are at WOT.. it's really kinda cool, no messing with geometry of those little rod things on the linkage, just looking down the barrels to ensure both butterflies are moving equally, takes less than a minute :)
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Old February 21st, 2014, 12:06 PM   #44
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Is it done yet? Burnouts to report, etc?
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Old March 12th, 2014, 08:09 AM   #45
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So I took it on it's first trip outside my neighborhood last night! :D

I have a routine on Mondays/Tuesdays... I go to the American Legion near my house for a couple hours, then to a Pool Hall for league play.. The Legion is just over 8 miles from my house and the pool hall is between the legion and my house, so I felt comfortable making that trip..

I need to adjust the valves again I think, I can hear a ticking that increases in frequency at higher speeds, so I'm guessing I've got a pushrod bouncing.. and it's running a bit fast at idle and rich because the carbs are set at lean best idle (adjustment screws lightly seated, then backed out one full turn..) but it runs! :)

I took the streets to the Legion and it backfires occasionally during shifts, but i think that's mostly just carb adjustment..

Leaving the Legion, I took it on the freeway for about 3/4 a mile, got up to about 60mph (traffic), and took the streets home from pool, no issues at all.. well except that I've driven modern cars since 2008 and forgot how hard it is to turn a wheel with no power steering or how stiff a brake pedal is with no power breaks :P

bottom line: I don't think I fucked up my engine rebuild or MSD install

now I just have to figure out how I'm going to reattach my rear apron so I can re-install my decklid..

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Old March 17th, 2014, 12:42 PM   #46
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dropped it off at Car Craft today to have them tune my carbs..

Currently it runs but the carbs at at "lean best idle" because I was never good at tuning em.. I'd rather just throw money at someone else to get it done right than to bang my head against the wall for a few days to get it done, mostly right :P

Assuming everything goes well and they get it running strong and proper, the next step is to figure out how I'm going to reattach my rear apron..

I took a grinder to the edges to remove it, instead of unbolting the fenders and drilling out the spot welds. When it was attached there were clearance issues with my exhaust.. The exhaust was touching it at all times and after driving for a bit,the whole rear apron would be hot to the touch.

I'm thinking of bolt on solutions because I still don't have a 220v plug for my welder. Best guess at an idea right now is a couple of small angle brackets.. bolt one side with the fender bolts, then drill holes in the apron to put some bolts through there too. It won't be pretty but it will work. I'm not going for show quality, just functional.

Since I know I have clearance issues, I think I'm going to try and make it stick out maybe 1/2 an inch or an inch so the exhaust clears, but not so far that it sticks out from the fenders a ton..
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Old August 4th, 2014, 02:22 PM   #47
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wow, been a while since I posted in this thread..

car was running GREAT, was loving it, nice to be back in my VR again..

I wound up breaking a strap that supports one of the glass packs so I replaced that with the strap shit you use to secure water heaters.. but all was well..

In June I towed it behind a 26' UHaul up to the wife's place in Jackson, California.. drove a couple of days there before noticing a loud clicking sound during turns and feeling the steering "off".. turned out one of the two bolts that holds the steering box clamp had gone AWOL and the other was loose..

I bought a new bolt but couldn't get at it right to replace it, but luckily I found an awesome little single man shop up there who put it back in and tightened everything up for me on the same day for $50.. He actually eliminated ALL freeplay I had, like my steering went from 4-7 inches of freeplay to NONE.. I almost crashed a couple of times on the ride home because I was so used to the steering wheel moving and having to constantly correct my path..

anyway, had the cars shipped to Virginia.. drove it about a week or so out here.. doors are filling up with water due to messed up window scrapers (see other post..) and passenger floor gets wet due to the hole I punched in the firewall to run my fuel line through the heater channel..

The last time I drove it, I checked my oil and saw it was a bit low, so I parked it thinking, "I changed my oil about 1400 miles after rebuild, but I hadn't changed my filter yet, so screw it, i'll change the oil again, change the filter, and be good.."

Well, yesterday I took a look and the water heater tape had broken in the same spot the original strap had broken, so I guess I'm having a vibration issue? oh and 3 out of 4 of my alternator backing plate bolts were gone.. so yeah, guess it's bouncing more than it should be..

Gonna have to buy three more bolts for that, and i'll probably put some lock washers on them.. and replace that strap again, as well as change the oil/filter again..

been crazy busy with work though, and when I want to work on it, it's raining.. I have a garage, but haven't fully finished unpacking/throwing shit away/selling shit, so I can't fit a car in there yet.. :/

Also discovering that the car scene seems to suck out here.. I got spoiled by California.. I was hanging out with one group who met every wednesday at a parking lot, and another group who met every other saturday at a different parking lot.. here I can't find anyone who does meets like that..
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Old August 4th, 2014, 05:14 PM   #48
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Good to hear you are well. Blue locktite is amazeballs btw.
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Old August 4th, 2014, 05:59 PM   #49
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Check the rubber trans mount thingy....... if one is broken the engine may be torquing over a lot and breaking the exhaust mount
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Old August 4th, 2014, 06:23 PM   #50
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Good to hear you are well. Blue locktite is amazeballs btw.
thanks! and yeah, i was thinking just lock washers, but maybe some loctite would be a good idea...

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Check the rubber trans mount thingy....... if one is broken the engine may be torquing over a lot and breaking the exhaust mount
IIRC Rob and I (mostly Rob) replaced all my transmounts with yellow urethane back in 2007.. I know that was 7 years ago, but I thought the urethane shit was supposed to last damn near forever?
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