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Old December 28th, 2014, 04:57 PM   #76
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Default Re: Effigy's history

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I didn't see add oil anywhere in that list after drain oil & change oil filter........ I think that's when the " cry" "scream" "throw shit" and "drink and call it a night and try again later" is going to happen big time!!!

bwahaha, good call! haha, i do actually have a big bottle of Royal Purple 5W-30 :P
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Old December 28th, 2014, 08:32 PM   #77
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Default Re: Effigy's history

http://youtu.be/PdB6e91stm0
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Old December 31st, 2014, 03:00 PM   #78
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Default Re: Effigy's history

Here's how it looks as of a couple of days ago..



also, song lyrics are usually used when a thread has gone on too long and you want it to stop.. tryin to tell me something RatRansom? ;P
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Old January 19th, 2015, 07:55 AM   #79
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Default Re: Effigy's history

Well, Genia and I cleaned out my half of the garage last week and pushed the bug back inside, so I took out the driver's side window and vent wing.. judging by the number of clips and the screw holding the out side scraper in place, I have the original scrapers in the car..

The previous owner gave me a ton of new rubber (he never got around to replacing it..) and his scrapers are cheap aftermarket, but it's better than the rotted, dried, cracking, and mostly gone scrapers that I had..

I was able to get the old stuff out and the new scraper in without too much difficulty, but I can't see how to replace the vent wing seal without drilling out rivets on the vent wing. It's still pliable and solid though and I don't use the vent wings so I'm leaving the old shit on..

Now I just have to figure out a way to get the vent wing back in, it keeps snagging the metal on the scrapers and getting stuck, I think i'm going to make a small sleeve out of sheet metal to slip the vent in between the metal pieces.



still waiting for my exhaust to arrive, i'm hoping to have it within the next 3-4 weeks..
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Old January 24th, 2015, 01:50 PM   #80
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finished the driver's door and 90% of the passenger door today.. All I have left is to trim the passenger side a little, and re-install my rain guard thingy..

passenger side was a LOT easier since I had done it once already and I had a wooden wedge to help spread the door and a piece of sheet metal to guide the vent wing in without snagging on the scraper trim..



driver's door back together



the ding in the chrome was there when I pulled it from the package.. these scrapers came from the previous owner.. They're cheap aftermarket with only 4 clips.. I pulled off German originals with 7 clips..



much better..



old scraper



missing most of the scraper portion..



best idea i had.. too bad i didn't think of it for the driver's door... spreading the door gap even just a 1/4 inch helped sooo much...



new scraper in place, just gotta go back out and trim the little bit of extra rubber by the vent wing..



should keep my doors from filling up with water..

next I think I'm gonna buy some of the "waterproof" door panel material. spray some adhesive and put plastic on the door itself, then cut new panels, and find a fabric/material I like to wrap em in..

The panels I have now are original I think..
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Old March 9th, 2015, 05:51 PM   #81
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Default Re: Effigy's history

Got my new exhaust in the mail today



that little foot long thing on the end.. yeah, it's my "muffler"



I'm sure the neighbors are going to LOVE it when I leave at 615 for work (when it's running of course.. :P )



Ran out to the garage and began taking stuff off..

















The shitty metal of the old exhaust did not like the moisture in the air around here...



I'm hoping to take the J-pipes off saturday, swap out the pushrod tubes with JayCee springloadeds.. and rebuild the carbs.

so glad to work on my VR again!
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Old March 16th, 2015, 02:19 PM   #82
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Saturday, I did one side at a time, pulled valve covers, rockers, push rods, push rod tubes, then installed JayCee spring loaded tubes and put everything back and set valve lash, changed NGK DCPR8E plugs for NGK DCPR6E's, then yanked the carbs to rebuild them.

Stripped the driver's side carb, let the body sit int he dip for about an hour total, then let the bits and pieces sit in the dip for about 40 minutes.. blew it all dry and began reassembly..

At this point, I had had 2 beers in about 4 hours (was working slow just hanging out in the garage with a friend..) so I know I wasn't drunk, I was just stupid.

I went ot put my new JayCee allen idle jet holders in and completely forgot that there is a rubber o-ring that goes on those..

snugged down the first one.. put the second one in and was using an allen wrench to "snug" it down when I guess I put some retard strength into it, because I sheared the threads off. pulled out the other one, and my "snug" had crushed the idle jet..

So I called it quits for the day.

Spoke to a local guy who was recommended by a friend for being awesome with carbs. He gave me the name of a machine shop up the street that he says might be able to remove what's left of the idle jet screw, oversize the hole, re-thread and make me a plug. Otherwise I gotta buy another carb body, or buy venturis to turn my brand new 48IDF's into 40IDFs..

I swear, its like I subconsciously just don't want to drive it anymore Really bummed/pissed because my parents are visiting from California this week and I wanted to have it running for that, and a car show on the 11th that I was going to enter it in.. doesn't look like either of those will happen now..

oh, and the A-1 exhaust I just got in the mail.. yeah, I put the j-pipes on (left em a little loose), then tried to put the header on, the driver's side, I can manhandle into position, but the passenger side (#2) doesn't line up at all )

I e-mailed ACN asking about it but haven't heard back yet.. After paying $1200 for a hand made exhaust, i expect the fucking thing to fit like a damn glove.
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Old March 17th, 2015, 06:15 AM   #83
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Default Re: Effigy's history

As Mike Beelzedub said to me when he handed over my hand-built 4->2->1->2 system ... don't tighten anything until you've slotted it all together then tighten everything a bit at a time :)

There again ... his exhausts have sliding joints and no goop ... so they can jiggle around a fair bit before you tighten them up.
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Old March 17th, 2015, 01:51 PM   #84
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As Mike Beelzedub said to me when he handed over my hand-built 4->2->1->2 system ... don't tighten anything until you've slotted it all together then tighten everything a bit at a time :)

There again ... his exhausts have sliding joints and no goop ... so they can jiggle around a fair bit before you tighten them up.
yeah, the sidewinders have the three slip fit joints, I left the passenger j-pipe loose because it pivots, but did tighten the driver's j-pipe..

I guess maybe that would prevent the other two exhaust ports from lining up? just not the design quality I expected for that much money..
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Old March 17th, 2015, 10:28 PM   #85
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yeah, the sidewinders have the three slip fit joints, I left the passenger j-pipe loose because it pivots, but did tighten the driver's j-pipe..

I guess maybe that would prevent the other two exhaust ports from lining up? just not the design quality I expected for that much money..
Note to self If I ever tig up an exhaust to make sure it lines up perfectly
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Old March 24th, 2015, 08:49 PM   #86
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You're not alone I bought this setup for my 66.The flange on the left j-tube was welded on at an angle so it doesn't fit flush to the head.I can't tighten it more or the stud will pull from the head.The only solution is to heat/bend or cut/weld both of which will destroy the ceramic coating that was $100 extra.I now have a permanent exhaust leak.I should have known better than to buy something made by EMPI!!!
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Old March 24th, 2015, 09:58 PM   #87
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You're not alone I bought this setup for my 66.The flange on the left j-tube was welded on at an angle so it doesn't fit flush to the head.I can't tighten it more or the stud will pull from the head.The only solution is to heat/bend or cut/weld both of which will destroy the ceramic coating that was $100 extra.I now have a permanent exhaust leak.I should have known better than to buy something made by EMPI!!!
well, no offense, but i would expect that from empi.. I bought a stainless steel system made by A-1.. from what I know, they are about the damn top of the food chain for exhausts..

I looked at it again tonight, took the j-pipes off, and tried to mount the header. in order to make this work, I'd have to muscle the shit out of it to get it on, or heat and bend the #2 pipe inwards about a 1/4 to a 1/2 inch.. not exactly the quality I expected for $1200.

especially considering my $200, off the shelf, boxed made in china header I was running fit perfectly..
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Old March 24th, 2015, 10:12 PM   #88
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Default Re: Effigy's history

here's the driver's side barely on:



which leaves the passenger side looking like this:



it's sooo close, but not right.. If I force it, it'll drag on the threads, and be insanely difficult to remove..
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Old March 25th, 2015, 06:10 PM   #89
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Ratchet strap it but looks like during welding process it moved slightly. Might need to heat and tweak it from the looks of it though.
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Old March 25th, 2015, 06:13 PM   #90
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Is there three slip joints on that header.
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Old March 25th, 2015, 07:19 PM   #91
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Ratchet strap it but looks like during welding process it moved slightly. Might need to heat and tweak it from the looks of it though.

might try a ratchet strap.. that could work, would just suck to have to do that everytime to get it on and off..

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Is there three slip joints on that header.
yeah, there are three slip joints, but with how it isn't fitting, it's not a matter of it rotating, the #2 pipe needs to slip in further to the header, or needs to be bent a tiny bit more..

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Did they build that system to fit a stroker engine?
I have read they end up being wider.
my engine is normal width, I had an off the shelf merger and it fit perfectly with no adjustments..
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Old March 26th, 2015, 01:07 AM   #92
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If you have a way to heat it up ( it isn't stainless right ) then just heat it up a bit a point and gently use a apply pressure to bend it (Ratchet strap works wonders!) I'm wondering what welding processes they used. Looks like mig on the parts that attach to the head the rest seems to be tig? Or is a mixture? I think heat is your only option. I'd refrain from beating on it with a hammer.
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Old March 26th, 2015, 05:59 AM   #93
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If you have a way to heat it up ( it isn't stainless right ) then just heat it up a bit a point and gently use a apply pressure to bend it (Ratchet strap works wonders!) I'm wondering what welding processes they used. Looks like mig on the parts that attach to the head the rest seems to be tig? Or is a mixture? I think heat is your only option. I'd refrain from beating on it with a hammer.
It is stainless, i didn't want it rusting to shit in a couple of years..
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Old March 26th, 2015, 05:26 PM   #94
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Exactly, what I was saying,
if they built that header to fit a stroker engine rather than a stock width engine then that is why it is too wide for you.
I would approach them with the question, Was this built for a stroker? because that's all it will fit.
I would not force it or modify it but I would send it back for proper fitting, after all it is what was paid for, they should make it right.
Sure ratchet straps and heat will move things, but what did you pay good money for?
true, i wasn't thinking about it like that..

I hda read about someone else who had fitment issues a few years back, andhe had ot pay shipping to send it back, get it back, send it AGAIN and get it back AGAIN..

I really don't want to pay shipping multiple times..
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Old March 26th, 2015, 09:19 PM   #95
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true, i wasn't thinking about it like that..

I hda read about someone else who had fitment issues a few years back, andhe had ot pay shipping to send it back, get it back, send it AGAIN and get it back AGAIN..

I really don't want to pay shipping multiple times..
I'd talk to them directly. you have picture proof i doesn't fit. I'd refrain from f-ing around with stainless... Let them deal with that if they will honour it.
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Old March 27th, 2015, 01:18 PM   #96
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Wow,

ok, so, I've always loved AirCooled.net, been sending them my money for years and always been well taken care of.. John must be having a bad few weeks, but this kinda irritates me.

I asked about the fitment issue last Monday (16MAR) and got no response, so I inquired again on Wednesday (25MAR). and finally got a response late last night and this morning.

I expect these kind of results from China made crap that's mass produced, boxed and shipped bulk. I'm sorry, but if I pay more than a grand for a custom made product, I expect perfection.

so what's the preferred method for cutting stainless steel? should I go buy a hacksaw? or is my angle grinder good?enough? I know i'll have to deburr it and all, just never had to cut it before..
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Old March 27th, 2015, 02:37 PM   #97
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Cutting stainless with a hacksaw can be an all day and several blades kind of job. I would guess that a quailty disc on your grinder will be the best option. However I don't work with stainless very often, so there may well be a better method.
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Old March 27th, 2015, 05:51 PM   #98
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Default Re: Effigy's history

There is a skinny disc made for your 4" to cut stainless. They cut so fast they don't blue it up too much. I use them for everything now because not only are they fast but because they are only 1mm (that's 40/1000's of an inch to you guys) they are much more accurate.
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Old March 28th, 2015, 08:19 AM   #99
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Default Re: Effigy's history

If you are going to use a high speed cutting disk make sure you are wearing the proper safety gear......... Gloves, Safety Glasses and a face shield too. If the disk gets on any kind of bind that shit will GRENADE

The thinner the disk the more likely it will explode......
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Old March 28th, 2015, 08:34 AM   #100
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If you are going to use a high speed cutting disk make sure you are wearing the proper safety gear......... Gloves, Safety Glasses and a face shield too. If the disk gets on any kind of bind that shit will GRENADE

The thinner the disk the more likely it will explode......
yeah, i wear a lot of ppe these days.. (personal protective equipment) I still get scratches and scrapes, but no more big shit..
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