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Old March 28th, 2015, 01:18 PM   #101
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Default Re: Effigy's history

cut a little less than a 1/4" off the end, it fits now.

Next task, gotta get these two damn valves out:



they're part of the choke circuit, which I've never used. i want to pull them, so i can tap the holes for 3/8-16 threads and put plugs in, I just can't get those two out.. Any ideas?

I've tried soaking the carbs in Berrymans (well, that was for the rebuild/cleaning, but whatever..) letting WD-40 soak in, letting liquid wrench soak in, and thinking of trying to heat the carb body with a mapp torch to see if it expands faster than the brass valves will..
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Old March 28th, 2015, 03:38 PM   #102
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Default Re: Effigy's history

Put the carb in the oven at 400 or so, for an hour or so... then secure the thing and try to remove the valves... usually that kind of heat soaking works for me.
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Old March 28th, 2015, 05:16 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by SCOTTRODS View Post
Put the carb in the oven at 400 or so, for an hour or so... then secure the thing and try to remove the valves... usually that kind of heat soaking works for me.
part of the problem is leverage, or lack of it.

There is a very tiny lip on the valve, but it's being worn down from failed attempts at prying it out..and the window to hit that lip is very small..
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Old March 29th, 2015, 09:23 AM   #104
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I think you should call A-1 direct and let them know the problems you have been dealing with, let them know that AirCooled.net is not helping you out with this issue (I know that AC.net has relocated to a bigger building in the last few weeks) I dealt with A-1 directly and have the same set up that you are trying to fit, I also ordered the stainless muffler so I could switch between the shorty or the muffler, my install fit like a glove.

If you need A-1's contact pm me and I'll be glad to share it.


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Old March 29th, 2015, 09:43 AM   #105
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Originally Posted by tattooed_pariah View Post
part of the problem is leverage, or lack of it.

There is a very tiny lip on the valve, but it's being worn down from failed attempts at prying it out..and the window to hit that lip is very small..
Is there enough room in there to install a screw or tap? or will that kill the whole deal, destroying the valves? If you can get new valves it would be easier... Drill 'em, Tap 'em, Thread a bolt, heat 'em up, pull...
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Old March 29th, 2015, 12:11 PM   #106
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Originally Posted by Number1tileguy View Post
I think you should call A-1 direct and let them know the problems you have been dealing with, let them know that AirCooled.net is not helping you out with this issue (I know that AC.net has relocated to a bigger building in the last few weeks) I dealt with A-1 directly and have the same set up that you are trying to fit, I also ordered the stainless muffler so I could switch between the shorty or the muffler, my install fit like a glove.

If you need A-1's contact pm me and I'll be glad to share it.


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At this point the problem is solved, am I 100% happy with how everything went down? no, but there's no point in dragging it out and crying, i'm just gonna move on.

That makes sense about ACN, Normally Stephanie does all the e-mailing, and I think the longest I've waited for a reply from her during business hours is maybe 4 hours, so when I didn't hear back all week I knew something was up, and then when John replied to the second e-mail I figured there was something going on.

I've been going through ACN for more than 10 years, I'm not gonna let this hiccup spoil that, I still think they are one of the best suppliers and have (normally) exceptional customer service.

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Originally Posted by SCOTTRODS View Post
Is there enough room in there to install a screw or tap? or will that kill the whole deal, destroying the valves? If you can get new valves it would be easier... Drill 'em, Tap 'em, Thread a bolt, heat 'em up, pull...
As far as I understand, the reason you have to remove the valves first if because the tap has to go down deep enough to cut the threads and the valves get in the way of that. But once they are tapped, you put he valves and spring back in to hold the valves all the way down, then put the plugs in. I was going to do this last time I rebuilt them, but couldn't get the valves out and was in a rush to get it running. If I had to i'll just use an extractor to get the valves out and buy replacements.
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Old April 3rd, 2015, 09:54 PM   #107
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Default Re: Effigy's history

put the pipes on today.

Ordered an o2 sensor bung plug and the plugs I need for the carbs the other night from Summit.

Just need to tap those valve holes, put the carbs back together and reassemble it all and then I get to try firing it up again..







Would prefer if the exhaust tip was pointed downward, think it would look better, but the way it is bent, it hits my fender if i rotate it that way..
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Old April 4th, 2015, 09:01 AM   #108
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Default Re: Effigy's history

You could always notch the fender.................
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Old April 25th, 2015, 09:00 AM   #109
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Had the kid help me put the carbs back in and hook everything back up. put new oil in, dumped a can of sea foam into the tank and about a gallon of fresh gas. It turned over fine, but wouldn't fire unless a liberal amount of B12 was sprayed down each carb throat..

Bought two gallons of 93 octane yesterday and dumped it in the tank, still no full firing, but i was drunk and tired and didn't want to damage anything in my current state so I stopped working.

This morning I went back out and got it to fire up!

It idles now, still needs some fine tuning though. Tried to drive around my block (it's a short block, only like 6 houses..) made it down the back alley, but anytime I gave it gas and fully let out the clutch it would start to sputter, lose power, and try to die, so I did a three point turn at the end of the alley and put it back in the garage. did some more tweaking on the mixture screws, and readjusted my fuel pressure regulator (it was at about 4psi, brought it down to 3.5psi..) and it's idling a bit better, gonna try to road test it again..

Getting close! :D
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Old April 25th, 2015, 10:05 AM   #110
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Default Re: Effigy's history

like i said, it's still rough, but it's running again! :D

http://vid23.photobucket.com/albums/...psryfewxpb.mp4
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Old April 26th, 2015, 01:10 PM   #111
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Just ran some errands with the kid. bought some materials to try and make my own steering wheel cover. The one I have right now is almost 10 years old and the elastic is gone, so it hardly stays on.. I can't find another one to save my life. the wheel is 13.5 inches and the smallest ones I can find are 14.5..

Also bought a digital timing light since I don't have a degree wheel..

It still having the same problem it had in Riverside though and I dunno what's causing it.. I'm guessing it's a matter of timing/idle speed/mixture screws..

It idles around 700rpm, but will die unless I give it the tiniest bit of gas, so I wind up manually idling around 1000..

When I start moving, it's strong all the way to about 4500-5000 and then it stutters BAD.. next time I go somewhere with the kid, i'm gonna have her record my tach so i can show what i mean when it stutters.. I think I put a 6000rpm chip in the MSD, but maybe it's just limiting early?

Iunno, it's running again and I missed it so :P
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Old April 28th, 2015, 02:07 PM   #112
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So remember last year I was asking (maybe it was on facebook and not here, i forget..) if it looked like my alternator pulley was wobbling?

I think it was.

I noticed while out on Sunday that the belt was really loose, so tonight I was going to see if I could shim it better or if I just needed a new belt..

Pulled the 19mm nut off and the pulley just didn't look right...













Looks like it's been a problem for a while, but I swear it did not look like that when I put it together last year.

Any ideas on what would have caused this? I'm guessing too few shims? I honestly have no idea..


edit:
According to this:

Quote:
To PROPERLY adjust the belt, you absolutely must start with the belt too loose, and remove 1-2 shims at a time until the correct tension is achieved. If you remove too many, you'll wind up tightening the nut until the belt is "tight enough", but the 2 pulley halfs are not squeezed together, and as the engine rotates the pulleys wear one another out. Every rotation the outer pulley moves out at the top, then in at the bottom, out at the top, until they are ruined. By doing it the 1-2 shim way, when you get the right tension the pulley halfs are tight against the shims and one another, and this movement and wear do not occur.
I think I just had WAAAAAY too few shims.. my belt was probably stretched the fuck out.. I only had 3 in place.. :/

yeah, I'm THAT kind of idiot :P
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Old May 23rd, 2015, 11:07 AM   #113
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been driving around for about two weeks with no right brake light or right blinkers.. finally got off my ass to fix it today..

the right tail wire was loose in it's connector, it actually fell off when I tried to disconnect it. put a new connector on and suddenly had my tail light back..

Put the DMM on the right turn wire (dual filament bulb, brakes are just turns staying lit..) and seemed to have power, put the DMM on the right turn wire from the trailer converter box, seemed to have power.. popped the trunk and tapped on the relay (it clicked for left turns but not rights..) when I flicked it, it would click once or twice, but otherwise nothing..

Went to the store and bought a new relay, swapped them in the parking lot, no change.. bought a new trailer adapter thinking maybe I fried mine.. took it home and swapped it out, no change..

checked the bulbs on the right side, both good.. FINALLY looked at the fucking wires for the front right blinker. one had come out of it's connector..

put a new connector on there and TADA, i have all my lights again.. goddamn it.. could have saved $30 in parts I apparently didn't need... oh well..
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Old May 23rd, 2015, 12:26 PM   #114
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Default Re: Effigy's history

I, myself, have NEVER bought parts I didn't really need. Just extra parts that I might possibly need for another job at some time in the future maybe.
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Old May 23rd, 2015, 02:33 PM   #115
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I, myself, have NEVER bought parts I didn't really need. Just extra parts that I might possibly need for another job at some time in the future maybe.
well, one of the three poles onthe flasher relay was looking a little blackened, and now my signals blink twice as fast, so maybe that was bad too.. I think it was factory original.. :P
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Old May 25th, 2015, 07:39 AM   #116
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Matt, It was good to meet you yesterday at Bug Out. I hope you had a good time and your ride home was uneventful. Thank you for your service!

Brian
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Old May 25th, 2015, 09:53 AM   #117
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Matt, It was good to meet you yesterday at Bug Out. I hope you had a good time and your ride home was uneventful. Thank you for your service!

Brian
Hey, was cool seein you too! I think there were only 3 of us Volksrodder's there, but hey, it's a start!

Made it home safely, although I am bright red from not wearing sunscreen.. haha
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Old June 22nd, 2015, 04:17 PM   #118
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So about 8 years ago, I paid like $4 for a cheap "universal fit" elastic steering wheel cover.. I've been trying to replace it for about a year now but I guess no one owns a 13" wheel anymore..

A couple of months back I bought some foam and some fabric, and tonight i finally made my own cover :)

It's not perfect, but it's good enough for me..



Wheel as is, the metal between the wood pieces burns the shit out of your hands on hot days...



wrapped the foam and held it in place with masking tape..



began sewing crushed red velvet around the wheel.. also began realizing my strip of fabric wasn't long enough...



yup, definitely too short..



cut a strip of the old universal cover and used it to cover my poor measuring :)
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Old June 23rd, 2015, 06:24 AM   #119
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Default Re: Effigy's history

red crushed velvet mmmmmmm


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Old June 23rd, 2015, 07:28 AM   #120
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red crushed velvet mmmmmmm


haha yea, except it's stretched so tight that the texture is just about undistinguishable.. The wife thinks the fabric will only last about a month, so maybe i'll be making a new one soon, if so i'll try a new fabric, that's easier to measure/sew straight hems on..
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Old June 23rd, 2015, 08:55 AM   #121
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I would have refinished the wood and rolled it like that

I know I'm biased, I have a refinished wood wheel (12 coats of clear) in my Volksrod
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Old June 23rd, 2015, 09:16 AM   #122
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I would have refinished the wood and rolled it like that

I know I'm biased, I have a refinished wood wheel (12 coats of clear) in my Volksrod
does the clear help with heat? we've been in the upper 90's for two weeks, heat index in the triple digits.. that metal (even the wood) is too hot to touch..
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Old June 23rd, 2015, 09:42 AM   #123
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I did 12 coats of a "Marine Grade" clear just so the sun wouldn't fade it. It's on a quick release so if it's too hot I can just take it with me



Edit: Time for an Arrogant Bastard and some street outlaws
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Old June 23rd, 2015, 09:50 AM   #124
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I did 12 coats of a "Marine Grade" clear just so the sun wouldn't fade it. It's on a quick release so if it's too hot I can just take it with me



Edit: Time for an Arrogant Bastard and some street outlaws
ahh, yeah, mine's not quick release.... yet... haha

mmm Arrogant Bastard :P
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Old June 23rd, 2015, 01:14 PM   #125
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Default Re: Effigy's history

I love toe classic 'Two Tone' look of your cover. To keep the wheel cool while parked (if wood and chrome, how 'bout a small towel to cover it, or maybe get some fingerless 'biker' gloves. :)
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