This build was meshed in the Wazabug Project.
I was bored so have now separated it into its own thread.
Jan., 28 2012
The Wazabug build project took me to alot of flea markets and outdoor car shows.
But that was alot of walking on my tired legs.
So that started this rather off topic build.
I decided I wanted a bicycle to get around.
But I couldn't build a regular bicycle, I needed an engine.
But I did not require anything very big, I am not looking for speed, I have motorcycles for that.
It had to be light enough to cart around on my small trailer behind Bugsplat or my Harley.
I looked at the standard China bicycle engine kits but did not want to go that route.
The plan is to build an early 1900's style motor bicycle, not a tribute to any specific manufacturer, just my interpretation of two wheelers of the era, using what I can make, scrounge, or otherwise acquire.
This bike is to be configured as an upright cruiser, rather than a boardtracker.
Something that would fit in with these.
I am planning the flat leather belt drive, and a leaf spring front end similar to these.
I have acquired a 1939 Maytag washing machine twin cylinder engine.
Otherwise known as a Maytag Multimotor
Therefore this build is called the Maytag Flyer
I have stripped the engine and cleaned it up, inspected it and got the rebuild parts.
Parts are small.
I have collected some free wrecked bicycles for bits and pieces.
Then main bike for the build is a Worksman INB that I got unfinished in raw steel.
I ordered a rear belt pulley from Timeless Motorcycles.
This is the starting point of the build because everything else must fit with this pulley.
Started out by fitting the pulley to the rear Worksman wheel rim.
Then I made up a stand to hold the bike.
The rear frame section now must be modified to clear the pulley.
Marked out the cut lines,
and cut one rail at a time and fit in these pieces.
The frame now clears the wheel nicely.
Next it was time to change the front half of the frame.
Started by cutting out the front tube and cutting the backbone.
Then had to clean off the old lug.
I need to widen the crank and pedals to clear the engine.
Once I know the fit of the engine I can bend up a drop tube section and stretch the frame.
More next time.
Feb., 5, 2012
Made some more progress on The Maytag Flyer.
Installed a three piece bottom bracket conversion and a wide crank and pedal set. The pedals will now clear evrything nicely.
One problem is the sprocket that comes with the wide conversion kit, it is too skinny and flimsy compared to the original Worksman sprocket,
It is also bigger than I want for this bike, so I decided to cut it off and swap in the Worksman unit, after I rework it to remove then extra material for the drive lug hole. I will also have to machine up a spacer to locate the sprocket for the correct chain alignment and then weld it all together.
It was time to take the frame to my work to fit the front section back on.
As I was going to my work to use some tools I took a pair of leaf springs scrounged from old snowmobile skis from the 1970's and sand blasted them so I could use the leaf springs in the fabrication of the front end. These leaf springs should be light enough for my requirements.
I then took one of the main leaves and rolled its end like used on some early bikes. Here is a comparison pic of the stock and the rolled leaves, I am not certain which one I will use just yet.
It was then time to put the frame back together.
I stretched it four inches and rolled the new front drop loop tube and welded it in.
The frame then came home again and installed the rear wheel to sort out the drive belt alignment and drive pulley location.
I must decide on the mounting and configuration of the engine and to do this I must decide if I will retain the stock magneto ignition and fan or go to a total loss system with points and a CDI.
I like the stock magneto because it has "Maytag" emblazoned on it.
But it makes for a much wider assembly, I must think on this for a bit.
I also have gotten a few other parts for the build. One is the carb, it is a 15mm BING from a PUCH moped that I think can be made to work well once the stock govenor assembly is removed from the engine crankshaft.
I will post up some pics of the other items as the build progresses.
Feb., 11, 2012
On Ebay I found an old seat that is the style required to give me some comfort. Wide and springy.
It was quite rusty and the covering had rotted off so I disassembled and sandblasted it, then gave it a coat of paint.
Then glued on a layer of closed cell neoprene foam.
Made a pattern of the seat base and transfered it onto some leather.
Stitched two pieces together and cut open the underside panel to slide in the seat pan.
Applied some glue, then slid the seat pan into place and stretched the cover tight.
Bolted the inner pan down tight untill the glue set.
Installed the mount and springs, trimmed off the excess leather.
Distressed the leather a bit and sanded the trimmed edges smooth.
I like it.
Feb., 12, 2012
I got a little more done today by starting on the front end,
I want to get this to be a roller before I hang the engine in place, just so I can get some stuff cleaned up in the shop and out of the way.
I did not want to cut the new Worksman front end up so I took the front off of a wrecked CCM MTB, the steering bearings were a smaller ball size than the Worksman units but the inner races were interchangeable. The steering post is about 1/4 inch longer so it suits my requirements perfectly.
So I cut the steering post free from the forks.
Then cleaned it up and transfered the races from the Worksman post, then installed it.
You can see that there is space between the top inner race and the nut, this space will let me fit in a top crown.
I now have the starting point for the front end and can now work out the final design and get some materials
Feb., 20, 2012
This weekend I did not accomplish much on the Flyer. I have been busy getting prepared to haul Bugsplat to the Detroit Autorama Extreme for next weekend.
I did get a little more done for the front end. Rolled some 1 inch tube for the rear legs and whittled away at a slab of 3/8 inch plate until I had the lower plate for the triple tree.
Hopefully more progress on this the following week and then another car show in Toronto. That is one reason that this project will take some time to complete.
But I am not in a hurry.
Mar., 4, 2012
Made up a few more parts for the front end.
Fit the neck post into the lower tree and welded it in place.
Cut, drilled, threaded and bent the two pieces that fit between the lower tree and the crown, then made up the crown piece.
Then made the pieces that will mount the bottom rockers and welded them into the curved tubes.
The small holes are just pilot holes to be enlarged once I get the proper hardware and bushings.
Here is the loosely assembled parts made so far.
I have also acquired a couple of Lucas carbide lamps. This is the first one
This is the second light that I think I will use for the headlamp. The other one may get a red lens and become a tail lamp.
April 22, 2012
I got some more done to the Maytag Flyer.
I cut a rear frame member and fit up a clamp system to reattach the two pieces. This will let me install an endless belt like a serpentine belt to use if the leather one stretches out too much.
I finished the main truss of the front end by adding some 1/2 dia. rod.
Then made a set of bottom rockers, this is a trailing link design, installed some pivot bushings.
The "L" shaped rocker allows for a brake drum anchor.
Modified and fit the leaf spring pack. Also fit in some fork stops so the front end won't hit the gas tank when it is built.
Made up some adjustable link rods to tie the rockers to the leaf spring.
Snugged and aligned everything and gave it a test. I am quite pleased with the operation, just the right amount of spring tension and rocker travel.
Sep., 3, 2012
Summer has been good which means I have riding or driving my already completed vehicles and have not been in the shop very much.
I have managed to get a little done just recently as I start to get back to work on the Flyer.
I took two handle bars and cut them and rearranged the pieces to make the shape I wanted.
Then made a mount tab for the headlight and welded it on.
I like the light.
Fit the tabs to hold the front fender, and yes it clears the tire and the leaf spring when at full travel.
Modified the rear fender stay to clear the belt drive pulley, and fit the rear fender in place.
also installed a wide crank kit and installed my original Worksman sprocket slightly modified to fit the sprocket adapter, I won't have to pedal as hard now. LOL
here it sits today
Sep., 9, 2012
did some more on the Flyer
made a new seat post to move me back a little
welded frame tabs for a carry rack and center stand
made a center stand
hanger hook for the center stand was made out of a torsion leaf spring from a Beetle front end.
stand works well
supports me pedaling when stationary so I can start the bike
and swings up nicely for transport
Sep., 22, 2012
Today I made a simple carry rack for the Maytag Flyer
Oct., 8, 2012
I have been gathering parts and making mounts for the engine and jackshaft installation on the Flyer. I will post up some pics of the assembled parts, they make more sense that way.
I also decided the curved seat post didn't look right
so I changed it back to a straight post. Then added another pair of braces to the front of the carry rack, just because it looked like it needed them. Then at Unkl Ian's suggestion I added some rivets to give it a more authentic period look.
Oct., 20, 2012
Here is a progress update on the Flyer.
I went to a vintage motorcycle swap meet a couple of weeks ago with Unkl Ian and picked up a choke control lever from an old Brit motorcycle while we were there.
I will use it for a throttle control.
A few days later I located some old hand levers and coke bottle grips, one for brake and one for a clutch on the primary drive.
Figured out some mounts for an old MC fire extinguisher.
Got a jack shaft machined to fit my jackshaft housing. Now I can align things and weld the mounts in place.
The housing is the end caps off of an electric motor, I retained the original bearings inside. The shaft will get shortened as will the engine crankshaft once the pulleys and belt alignment is figured out. The housing will also get some copper plumbing added later to give it a look.
I will run the magneto with the fan section intact, the wide crank kit gives me the needed clearance.
Everything aligned and welded up.
Here is how it sits today.
Oct., 27, 2012
I installed my new tires and then decided that I did not like the fenders that I was using all that much.
ride like the Maytag Flyer required something with a little more style.
So a little shopping found me these. And an afternoon in the shop got them fit into place.
I just need to weld up the old unused holes.
I like them!
Nov., 4, 2012
Todays project was to make a vintage style toolbox for the Flyer.
After making some paper templates and then cutting some 18 ga. metal I got it tacked together.
all welded and cleaned up.
Made a wire edged access door with brass thumbscrews.
Finished the box, made the mounts and fit it in place.
I now also have the primary drive pulleys, still have to make the drive pulley for the final flat belt. Then I can make the primary drive cover.
More next time I have a couple hours in the shop.
Nov., 11, 2012
Today was a nice and unseasonably warm day so I went out in Bugsplat for a late fall cruise.
Yesterday was not as nice and I did a little work to the Flyer.
First I stretched out the handlebars that I had cut shorter a few weeks ago.
I had looked at them long enough to decide that they needed to be longer and they need a crossbar, well they still need the crossbar when I get some tube the proper size.
Then I started some poster board oragami, trying different gas tank designs.
The first was just a quick fold up in frame idea.
You can see that the front end requires the gas tank to stop short of the front of the frame or else they would hit when the steering is turned hard.
I then tried out an over frame style tank that would be made out of two seperate sides.
I liked its possibilities but it was too big for the size of the engine.
So I decided to try a tank that was one piece and fit under the top tube.
It had a tunnel on the bottom so it could drop down over the lower tube.
This gave a deeper tank but it would not fit into place nicely even if I cut the tunnel from bottom to top it still would not "roll" into place.
At this point I made a template for a filler piece to close in the frame in front of the gas tank.
Then it was back to the original idea of a purely in frame tank. I made a poster board mockup, now I need to make a wooden buck to do some hammer forming.
I had planned on using this old veterinary needle,
once stripped of chrome it is brass, to make a hand operated oil pump similar to this one.
Instead I used a pump from an old brass blow torch to create a faux oil pump plunger. I will fit this into the "oil tank" section of the fuel tank I also used a small "Unimat" lathe to modify some plumbing fittings into gas cap and filler neck parts.
Then the parts were suspended in ammonia vapor overnight to give them some patina.
This morning they looked like this.
Nov., 18, 2012
Well this weekend was very similar to the last one except I took my Harley out for a late fall ride on one day and worked on the Flyer on the next day.
I picked up a piece of tube and made a cross bar for the handlebars, redesigned the gastank, fork stops, also made up some brass clamps for hanging the tank in the frame.
I decided I did not like the frame filler in front of the gastank.
I compromised the turning radius and the gastank design to make them all work together without using a short gastank and a frame filler piece like I had initially planned.
I used the rear spring mount bolts as an anchor for the stops which contact a tab welded to the frame under the steering neck.
They allow for clearance between the forks and the redesigned tank.
The fork stops and new tank design means no filler piece.
Once the glue dries on this block of laminated wood I will carve it into a gastank buck.
Nov., 25, 2012
During the week I found an idler pulley that would work for my primary drive.
So I made up a mount and spring loaded tensioner to hold it.
I still need to fit the cable which will retract the idler allowing the belt to slip.
The mount also has tabs to hold a primary cover which is still in the planning stage.
My rear reflector arrived this week.
And so did my chain guard.
I was not to thrilled with this chain guard that I had.
So I found this one which is much more suitable for the Flyer.
Then this weekend, as the glue had set on the stack of boards, I marked out the first cut lines for the top gas tank panel and started cutting.
Next it was time to router the edge for a nice radius.
I do not want square edges on this tank so it takes a little more work.
Marked the locations of the all the holes in the top and used them to hold a piece of 18 ga. which was cut about 5/8 " oversize.
It will get trimmed later.
The 18 ga. was sandwiched to the top of the form with another piece of wood to hold it tight while hammer forming it around the radius.
After hammering the top panel to its first flat shape. The top will get curved to fit the frame later.
The bottom of the form block was now trimmed and routered for the bottom tank panel, which was formed the same way as the top. It is slightly shorter than the top because it does not have to bend to follow the frame top tube.
First step in the top and bottom panels is complete.
The form block was then cut to fit the profile of the frame top tube and is held with the brass straps that were made awhile ago.
It still needs a little more fitting , but it will stay like this until a few other details are sorted out.
More next time.
Dec., 2, 2012
I did not accomplish much with the Flyer this weekend, just a little finishing up of the primary belt tensioner and cable retract system. It now works by the hand lever.
The white nylon block does not touch the belt when it is under tension from the idler, it has about 2mm clearance at this point but the nylon can be shaved if more clearance is needed.
When hand lever is squeezed the cable pulls the tensioner to retract and the looser belt wants to assume a circle shape but it can only move outwards as far as the guide will allow.
This causes the excess slack in the belt to be trapped in between the guide and the idler thus forcing the slack towards the pulleys and allowing it to slip.
. it seems to work well by hand after trying a couple of different v-belts. We shall see what adjustments are required once gasoline is added to the mix.
Dec., 9, 2012
It was a miserable wet day outside but a good day in the shop.
I made progress on the secondary belt tensioner.
I made up the tension lever, idler arm and roller pieces which are just loose fit at this point until I can make shaft spacers and change the pivot to a heavier piece.
Still waiting on the last pulley to measure for the proper flat belt
I made a couple of mounts for the tension lever selector quadrant. I want it to fit below the gas tank as the tank is small and I need room to put the name on the side.
Welded the mounts to the frame and fit the quadrant plates.
Drilled all the selection holes
Fit a lock lever and pin. I still need to fit a spring to hold the lock lever engaged but I did not have the right spring in my junk box.
Maytag Speed control
Jan., 20, 2013
During the week the fuel tank fittings got secured.
I used silver solder rather than braze so as to keep the heat down and hopefully lessen the distortion.
Then it was time to deal with the tank venting.
I did not want to go with the pigtail copper tube soldered to the caps and I did not want to just drill vent holes in the caps.
I did want to make the caps more distinct and taller to visually work better with the oil pump plunger.
My solution was to make screw vents similar to what is found on old portable outboard marine fuel tanks.
A brass screw was soldered through the cap from the inside. Then a small vent hole was drilled right beside the screw.
Thumbscrews, springs, and acorn nuts complete the assembly.
When the thumbscrew is loosened it opens the top of the vent hole.
The same thumbscrew, spring, acorn nut set up acts as a friction lock on the spark advance lever.
Fit the copper oil tube from the tank to the engine.
The secondary belt tension levers have always needed something to finish the hand grip portion.
I looked in the Maytag accessories catalogue
and found that the Flyer should have some bling on the end of the lever.
So I stole the handle off of the fireplace poker.
Cut some pieces out and notched them to fit the levers.
The knobs are just a press fit at this point but I will drill and use some roll pins to keep them secure.
Gives it quite a control panel.
Jan., 26, 2013
Finished up a mod to the front brake anchor today and it was nice outside after a week of below normal temps.
So it got rolled it out for a picture.
However because the flywheel is out getting its magnet recharged you will only get the left side view for now.
Still quite a bit to do.
But it is getting there.
Feb., 3, 2013
This week I saw a set of old, leather lace wrapped grips that I really liked.
After staring at the rubber coke bottle grips that I had on the bike for awhile I decided they had to be replaced.
Found some brass tube that with a little internal sanding would slip snuggly onto the bars.
Picked up some suitable brass fittings from Home Depot and turned them into hand grip parts.
Also made some brass cable end ferrules.
Soldered the brass hand grip parts together.
Initial wrap with leather lace just to take a look.
Lace is glued, wrapped tight, covered in wax paper, then wrapped tightly with cord to "clamp" the lace until the glue sets.
I like them.
Final task today was to modify the throttle lever and the front brake lever so that they shared a common mounting clamp, just to clean up the look a bit.
Feb., 10, 2013
The magneto flywheel returned from getting its magnet recharged and a new ignition coil arrived.
Combined they will give lots of spark.
Also found a repop rope start pulley that was used on these engines when the kick starter was removed and they were connected to water pumps or other equipment.
The original V belt pulley that connected to the washing machine.
Was removed and replaced with the new rope start pulley.
Now I can pedal start or pull start.
The stand that held the frame during the early stages of the build was reworked.
It is now an engine stand that will hold it during the initial runs and setup.The engine and exhaust are just mocked up to check the fit.
Now to find time to clean and reassemble the engine parts.
Feb., 18, 2013
I managed to get the engine parts recleaned and assembled.
The cylinders were honed, new piston rings installed, and the fuel jet opening in the crankcase was plugged.
The governor assembly was removed from the crankshaft, this will allow rpm to now be controlled by the carb.
This picture shows the original fuel delivery parts.
The fuel pickup tube with screen in the bottom and jet on the top is on the right and on the left is the flyweight governor assembly from inside the crank.
The magneto was rebuilt with a new hand wrapped ignition coil which is supposed to be better than the original from 1939.
Engine was painted with some Harley wrinkle finish black. The exhaust was done with VHT header paint.
I still need to get a throttle cable, install the carb and exhaust, then rig up a temporary fuel tank so I can run it on the stand.
Mar., 18, 2013
I reinstalled the engine in the frame so a proper measurement for the throttle cable could be made.
Figured that I may as well do the test runs with the engine in the frame. So I ran some Kreem fuel tank liner through the gas tank so it was ready to go.
Then because the space between the fuel petcock and the carburetor was so short, I decided to go with an intank filter similar to what was used on some older British bikes.
Not wanting to buy an expensive petcock just for the filter, I took a sintered brass filter from an older Chevy carb,
then cut the center out of it.
the center cone section of filter is now securely fit into the top end of the petcock and it flows more than adequate fuel.
Also modified the fuel fitting at the carb so it would accept the rigid copper fuel line. A fuel line was twisted into shape and installed.
The secondary belt drive pulley was finally finished up at the machine shop. (I ordered last Halloween
Now the alignment of the secondary belt tensioner pulley can be set and the final welding done to that part.
But that will have to wait for awhile as other projects are getting in the way.
May, 12, 2013
My throttle cable arrived so I got it partially fit in place. It is a universal cable that has to be cut to length and have a barrel end attached on one end.
Also countersunk all the screw holes in the rear wheel drive sheave so it could be attached to the brackets that locate it on the wheel rim. Removed the temporary clecos and fit flathead countersunk fasteners and acorn nuts to join the sheave and its brackets.
Next installed was the leather lagging on the sheave.
The final drive belt is now fit in place. As a leather belt would quickly stretch and require sending back to the vendor for shortening, I decided to use a three ply flat power transmission belt custom made to size from a local belting supplier.
It almost looks like a leather belt.
Shortened and re aligned the secondary belt tensioner pulley. It was made from a flat roof repairmans seam sealing roller tool. I shortened it a bit and spun it in its bearings up against an angle grinder untill it had a nice crown in the center of the pulley face. Helps to keep the belt running in the center of the pulley.
It is getting closer to running, I just found a nice piece of phenolic to carve the base for a vintage style ignition kill switch.
Whenever I can find some more shop time.
June 17, 2013
The phenolic block is now a push button and a base for the kill switch. Pushing the knob down contacts the handlebar and kills the engine.
The wire will get tied down properly when the bike is finished.
More next time, whenever that is.....
Aug., 15, 2013
The front brake backing plate normally anchors on a pin attached to the fork leg. As the suspension does its thing and allows the wheel to travel up and down in relation to the fork leg, the anchor tabs on the backing plate need to be able to slide up and down on the anchoring pin. The original tabs were a little short for the required length of travel so it was time to replace them.
Here the original tabs are still on the backing plate, with the newer longer ones on the left.
New tabs installed.
Brake and wheel reassembled. you can just see the anchoring pin and tabs in this pic.
Aug., 19, 2013
Today I finally mixed up some fuel for the Maytag.
The recommended mix is 16:1 with 30 WT mineral oil. It actually uses the heavy oil mix to seal the crank bushings. But it does make it very smokey, I can change to an outboard marine 2 stroke oil that is a little better.
The carb is set just as out of the box, it came with extra jets so it can be tuned a bit.
After replacing the spiralled tank to carb copper fuel line with a straighter one the fuel did not air lock and it fired right up.
Only one more part to make and a few things to connect and tighten up and it can go for a test ride.
The audio on this clip changes depending on your player and how you view it, weird.
Aug., 22, 2013
After finally getting it running the other day, the urge to finish the major construction and get it ready to ride kicked in.
The last piece to make was a belt guard.
The upper part of the drive belt runs close to my leg.
So a piece of 20 ga. was bent
It was then run through a bead roller to give it some character and a wire edge was attached to trim it.. Mount tabs were added in the required places.
Now it has a belt guard.
August 25, 2013
It had to be done.
I spent some time the last couple of days working to get things together for a ride.
All the bolts tightened, hand grip set screws installed, drive system aligned and a bunch of little things.
It is now complete with the exception of taking it all apart to paint.
That will be left for a while as the final plan is still to be determined, that and it looks ok naked.
Took it for a ride around the block.
It does parade speeds plus a bit, which is what was planned for. For growing pains it needs to have the carb leaned a bit and the final belt tensioner needs to be adjusted tighter but thats it.
It should be just fine for the Steam Era Show at the local fairgrounds next weekend.
Safety first, made a mount clamp and fit a horn that Unkl Ian gave to me. I need to warn the pedestrians I'm a commin.
The completed Maytag Flyer. (for now)
Sep., 2, 2013
I took the Flyer down the block to a Steam Era agricultural fair in my town this weekend. Got lots of questions and comments when I stopped riding, but mostly just rode in, rode around the event for awhile then home again. Once or twice a day for four days.
Saw stuff like this.
also put together a video of the build process.
Oct., 6, 2013
Started to work on the final finish for the Maytag Flyer this afternoon. Decided the first step would be more rust. I mixed up a batch of Unkl Ian's special rust elixer
and gave it a squirt.
Here it is when first sprayed.
After 20 minutes.
1 hour into the rust process.
2 hours later
This will continue to rust for a few days ,occasionally being sprayed with more rust elixer to get the rust really in deep. Then the rusting will be stopped.
Nov., 03, 2011
After sitting for a few weeks, rusty but dry, I found the time for the next step on the Flyer.
Which was to disassemble and spray it down with rust converter.
Ran out of the darn stuff before I got the frame sprayed.
Nov., 16, 2013
The Flyer has had a little paint and detail added to it.
The fuel tank was lettered, pinstriped around the edge and then distressed to age it.
Finally it was assembled and scuffed up a bit in spots for a little fresh rust.
The idea was to make it look at first glance like it was found in a barn after 100 years, a rare and previously unknown bike.
But also a spoof on people at the same time.
It is easy starting and fully functional and rideable for its intended use a special event cruiser or pit bike.
Old Maytag decals were added at the frame head and toolbox then distressed.
An old brass drip oiler was added to the jackshaft housing, it can be adjusted to slowly drip oil out of the housing and onto the floor for added effect.
Vintage style kill switch is functional.
A mixture of carbon soot, old oil and clay dust still needs to be applied around the wheel hubs and bottom of the frame.
Then take it to a motorcycle show this winter and park it, stand back in the crowd and listen to what the "experts" say about it.
It will be entered in a "special interest" class not "vintage" as I am not going to try and lie about what it is or what the component parts were used as in a former life.
The purposed idea is to have it described on a sign in a truthful yet misleading, rambling and humorous manner so only those that read the entire sign will fully understand what they are looking at.
The selective repurposing of parts is a good portion of the fun in this build. Bits came from a few sources.
Front end built using a spring from an old snowmobile ski.
Jackshaft housing made from electric motor end frames.
Maytag washing machine engine converted from stationary single speed to carburetor and variable ignition timing.
Plumbing parts used for making hand grips pieces and gas caps.
Two sets of handlebars used to make one.
Bicycle frame stretched and modified.
Antique phonograph tone arm used for a velocity stack on a carb that came from a moped.
Old kerosene blowtorch parts used as hand pump engine oiler.
Brass fireplace poker used to make decorative ends on the belt tension lever.
Turbine aircraft engine parts in a couple of locations.
VW torsion leaf used for a hook to stow the center stand.
Roofers seam sealing roller tool used for secondary belt tensioner wheel.
A couple of actual antique bits like the carbide lamp and prewar bicycle fenders.
The rotten old seat was rebuilt and various other parts were just handmade from metal.
Rust added for effect.
Jan., 6, 2014
The Flyer won Class Champion in Special Interest class at The International Motorcycle Supershow in Toronto.