The column was out of an 89 Berretta, and needed to be lengthened about 14.5".  I trimmed it down right after the taper straightened out.  I made up an adapter splice to join the upper GM half to my lower bug half (that 14.5" section).  The GM side was 19mm, while the VW side was 16mm (id tube diameter).   I made up a couple of offset brackets and bolted them to the VW hanger at the top, and bolted the brackets to the GM half. Then the fun part, wiring.  The GM side uses more wires than needed for a VW, but thats ok, the main ones needed were the yellow (left), green (right) and purple (power in) for the turn signals, and black for the horn. You can save the dark (R) and light (L) blues for some other marker lights if you want, or keep them for something else later, or just cut them off. Now you need to get the ignition switch to work, this was a little confusing at first, but after a little research, it fell right into place. The terminals are actually labeled, and you want the "S", Bat1, and ign1, you can also wire in the acc if you want (like for a radio). These 3 are at one end of the switch, and they start from the top and work down first S, then Bat1, then ign1 in a row.  After I wired everything up, I checked it out and it works great. Now for the headlight dimmer switch, this is where things get funky, as you have a choice.  You can do it like VW did, but it doesn't quite work like that, or you can do it like GM did.  The first time I did it like VW, but you have to work the switch twice to get the lights to flash.  The other option is the GM way, which you bring power to the dimmer switch, then feed the high and low beam sides with there own wires to the fuse box. The GM dimmer switch worked out great.  All I did was remove the white wire w/black stripe from the VW relay, and attach it to the end terminal (-) on the dimmer switch.  The white and yellow wires from the relay (to fuse box) needed to be lengthened about 10 inches, and they went on the other 2 terminals (l) (l).  Then you remove the relayand hide the brown wire w/white stripe, as it is no longer used. The black horn wire gets lengthened and now becomes the ground wire (replaces the one inside the steering column), as the power wire is already there. I found out something while working on the later model car, when it came to the ignition switch.  It centers around the late models function of the head lights shutting off with the key.  On these cars you need to use either the ign3 terminal or acc terminal on the GM switch.  If you use the Bat2 terminal, then the head lights will stay on until you turn them off. VW started this in 71, and used it for all the later cars.  So just beware of it.  The early cars don't use this extra wire, so you don't have to worry about it. I should mention that the turn signal wires on the VW side, the black wire w/green&white stripes is the one that needs to connect to the purple wire.  The black w/white stripe connects to the yellow, and the black w/green stripe connects to the green wire.  I forgot to add this in my earlier post.  Everything seems to be working great, just like it came from the factory. I have also found that GM used different sizes for their columns, so you might want to check your sizes first before having the adapter sleeve made.